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spots are disappearing

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by wildlife, Dec 10, 2014.

  1. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    Hey Gang, so I'm trying some different clear coat and sealers and noticed tonight when I put any kind of clear when I'm sealing powders I watched my spots that I airbrushed just disappear. Has anyone ever seen this and what did you do to fix it. I am using wa30 thinned with retarder. Thanks
  2. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    It's generally the acetone in the products along with the retarder that does this. Try flash coats first and do it slow. Also wait a day or two to make sure the retarder has dried up. It takes time for retarder to dry properly and when hit it gloss, we just say bye bye.

  3. duxdog

    duxdog Active Member

    After you paint your spots, apply warm air to your fish to dry the paint and warm the canvas. Then apply your gloss/sealer and repeat applying warm air. Don't cook it. Lol
  4. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    Thanks for the info. I kinda figured that is what's going on. Just never had seen it.
  5. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    So it's the retarder? Had the same issue for years on brown trout spot halos. Was too dumb to figure it out. Thank you gentlemen and thanks wildlife for asking!
  6. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    I knew someone had to deal with this before, nothing like watching spots disappear right in front of you lol. I need to switch to some other kind of paint for doing spots.
  7. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I had that issue with Candy Bright Yellow a few years ago. What was weird is it slowly disappeared over a period of a few days even after the clear coat was dry. Switched to just regular bright yellow and used less and was able to achieve the same thing and no sublimation.
  8. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    That's crazy! Nothing pisses me off more then wasting time on a paint job and getting shotty results. I have been switching over to createx wicked colors and really like how they perform, plus there pearl colors are awesome on fish.
  9. jimss

    jimss Active Member

    As preveiously mentioned.. possibly wait a while before sealing and make sure at least the first coat is a super light flash. I use a hair dryer after the sealer and you can sometimes watch the colors re-appear. I've had good results with Krylon Crystal Clear. It is cheap and can be picked up at Walmart/Kmart, etc. I live in Colo where it is dry. If you live where it is humid it likely is a bigger problem. Possibly try to figure out something to rid your shop of humidity?
  10. naturalcreati40

    naturalcreati40 Active Member

    Ugh...been there done that and got the tshirt. I think some have mentioned this, do you guys/gals heat set your paint as you go and in the end. Also does anyone know if warming the surface of my fish before applying Tripple Thick help it go on? I so agree with the posts above I mist coats on, it might take 20 coats over a couple of days but this helps.
  11. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    I have always warmed the surface before and in between each clear coat. It helps pull any air out.
  12. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Started out painting fish in an unheated garage. Had to take the fish to my warmed up car to get the clear coat to set up. I was still at home and the lacquer painting was banned from the house.

    Ah those were the days. And taxidermy was still exciting! ;D
  13. Kevin Halle

    Kevin Halle Well-Known Member

    I used to have those issues of spots and paints disappearing too. I switched to rust-oleum painter's touch 2x gloss several years ago and those issues went away. I was once told it was because there was no acetone in it but acetone is listed on the MSDS. Whatever the ingredients, the issues went away.
  14. wildlife

    wildlife Member

    I haven't tried rust oleum brand clear. Thanks for the heads up I will have to try some of that.
  15. 1fish2fish

    1fish2fish Well-Known Member

    The only time I experienced this was a few years ago and I happened to be using Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X. I had antiqued and painted every scale on a good size King Salmon blank. Glossed it, and the antiquing was gone. Should have sealed it before scale painting, but had poor weather for glossing.

    Anyway, I had used scale detail black for the antiquing......any chance this is what you used for your spots? Probably I didn't shake the bottle up enough and got more retarder than normal, like Frank suggested. I quit using detail black there and then (great decision for many reasons) and I've used the 2X a great deal and it's never effected my paint since, and I haven't been careful about how and when I use it. Last year, I switched to the lacquer gloss because I feel the 2X is a tad too soft.

    Best, Scott
  16. Spots? What spots?
  17. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    ;D ;D ;D