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ear liner adhesion

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by cttaxidermy, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. cttaxidermy

    cttaxidermy Member

    139
    0
    What adhesion does everyone use? Does anyone use the red flocking with there's? Thanks!
     
  2. I use pink ots liners with pro 1. As long as they fit well any paste will do

    Sent from my XT907 using Ohub Campfire mobile app
     

  3. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    PERSONALLY, I disagree. Poly ear liners are naturally "oily". They're injection molded and the material itself acts as it's own mold release. In order for an adhesive to work, it needs to overcompensate for that inherent lubricant. There are only two products that will work: a destructive adhesive (like Jaw Juice) which melts the plastic (don't use it on earliners as you'll end up with a glob of snot in the ear pocket) or epoxy which actually bonds poly. If you use anything else, your earliner is simply forming the glue you use until that glue dries. I love Pro 1, but just for giggles, paint an earliner and let the glue set for a week. Then go out and with your fingernail, just scratch it and see how easily it peels off the earliner. (Bondo will do exactly the same thing.) On the other ear, put some epoxy. Tell me which one bonds to the earliner more intensely.
     
  4. butterbean

    butterbean New Member

    x2
     
  5. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    I don't use flocking. The more hardener I mix in the bondo the more red it gets...can't really see the red through the cartilage anyway. For adhesion, I mix in fiberglass resin...sticks to the cartilage really well.
     
  6. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    2,457
    20
    If the liners are not ruffed up or sanded to give the glue some tooth to adhere to, nothing will stick. Your right on the 2 part George, it dries into a much harder surface, but bend the liner and the epoxy will snap right off if not roughed up. Granted where not bending ears to test if or how good the skin will stay put, not necessary. A well fitted ear skin to liner will work with most of the better glues out there for taxidermy purposes, Pro 1, Buckeye, Epo grip, etc. Also, with a lot of the 2 part epoxy's, per directions, not to be used on wet or damp surfaces, must be free of oils or contaminants. Kind of rules out most for taxidermy skin applicants.
     
  7. I do ruff the liner before glue on a wire wheel
     
  8. I cannot speak for other epoxy manufacturers but I can tell you that Epo-Grip will cure and bond to damp and wet surfaces. To demonstrate this we cure our products under water in our booth and seminars.

    I can safely say however, regardless the manufacturer, when using a epoxy the item to be bonded to MUST be free of Grease Wax or Oil because those items act as a release agent. That is why it is a good idea to wipe down your earliner with a solvent to remove any mold release residue left over during manufacturing.
     
  9. Over 20 years ago I sat through a Tom Powell deer head seminar in NY and he passed around a tanned ear with the cartilage removed on a plastic McKenzie earliner using latex caulk as an adhesive. Every person in the room (30-plus) bent and twisted that ear before it came to me. It was impressive. I have done my ears that way ever since. I do rough the earliner on a wire wheel, and I do ad a drop of pink latex acrylic paint to the caulk—mixing it on a piece of cardboard with a tongue depressor. I use white caulk uncolored on the back of the ear. It dries in a couple hours on the edges and within a day or two on the inside and the pink shows through the hair. The caulk is cheap and the results are amazing.
     
  10. Right on Bucky. I used caulk in a pinch and it does work awesome. I tried the stuff tom matuska sells and it adheres good. At work now and can't remember the name of it. It is like the yellow 3M adhesive we used on aircraft upholstery on steroids.
     
  11. Jim McNamara

    Jim McNamara Well-Known Member

    1,681
    78
    when I rough a set of its liners and glue with pro1 it tends to drum but if I rough and wipe with lacquer thinner they hold very well. To my way of thinking it's all about the prep work.
     
  12. KFLAH

    KFLAH Active Member

    255
    85
    If the ear starts to drum with the pro 1 try poking a hole with a needle. From my experience, many times an air bubble forms in the ear from working the hide paste around. Once the air is released, no more drumming.

    Kevin
     
  13. Michelle_Nelson

    Michelle_Nelson Bring on the Bears!

    I've been thinking lately about going more to Ear Liners. I've only used 2 or 3 sets. I find this thread interesting and informative. The bondo works well for me. Just wanna change it up a little and try new things.
     
  14. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

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    I was in the auto body business for over 20 years so bondo was like an every day occurrence, Could never get the ear I get with liners as oppose to bondo. To thick, didn't like the final shape, liners made a big difference for me. Use bondo mostly exotic ram ears or boar.
     
  15. WildlifeLady

    WildlifeLady Member

    362
    4
    Ohio
    Sta-Put Adhesive works well for me, along with mixing Pro One hide paste with Derma Grip Pink ear adhesive.

    http://www.whitetailsystems.com/TaxidermyTipsClayEarButts.html