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Glue around eyes and antler burr?

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by jdog42, Jan 13, 2015.

  1. jdog42

    jdog42 New Member

    Hello, very new to this and love it so far (and really love this forum). I have a couple of questions. Do you guys put hide paste all over the skull cap and under the antler burr? Also, do you put hide paste all over any clay? Or do you let the clay adhere to the cape? I've watched a video and they didn't put (that I saw) hide paste on the skull cap and under the antler burr. They tied the cape to the antler burrs then started sewing. I would think you need hide paste around the burrs if nowhere else. Sorry for the dumb questions :-[
  2. TomR

    TomR New Member

    You will definitely want either hide paste or epoxy on the antler burr area to ensure adhesion. As far as the incision area is concerned, I will put hide paste up to the incision area, but not directly underneath where I lay down my stitches, in order to avoid a pasty mess. As far as hide past over the clay, the answer would be yes, you want to ensure adhesion. Thats my two cents.

  3. jdog42

    jdog42 New Member

    thank you sir...that answers it
  4. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Every single square inch gets hide paste especially under the stitches of the seam. The only bare areas devoid of hide paste is the antlers, the glass of the eye and the back board. I even bring the hide paste around and glue the hide to the edge of the back board. Anything less is not enough.
  5. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    I my self will not put it under the stitches. not that I don't want to. put I get pretty sloppy and ill have one heck of a mess when I sew. :eek:
  6. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    The trick to it is to use a syringe with a curved plastic tip instead of a needle. Enlarge the hole in the tip, remove the plunger, fill with hide paste, replace the plunger and now you have a little caulking gun. I stitch loosely about six stitches, squirt my paste under about four of those stitches and cinch them tight. I press the stitches into the glue. I now have a clean, glue free area to continue stitching and my previous stitches are glued into place. I put the syringe into a ziploc bag and that keeps the glue moist. This will make your seam "almost" invisible. My seam has improved by leaps and bounds when I started doing this. I tried using an acid brush and also a tongue depressor to apply the paste but it was very messy and pulling a needle and thread that has hide paste on it is not fun.
  7. KFLAH

    KFLAH Active Member

    I just put an excess of glue on the forehead or down the back and work it back to my stitches when done sewing.

  8. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    Very simple guys, just feed some past under stiches as you go. Sew 3 inches, put some paste under seam with a brush. If you can't lift up the hide, your skin is to tight. I use a very short Y and after the V is sewn I put a blob of paste under seam, and both sides of the opening that's left, sew it up and move paste back under sewn area, no mess at all. Also, paste goes all over eyes as it lubes clay work (which was drying for an hour) so it doesn't mess up when putting on cape over head.
  9. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    Exactly the way I do it only I dab it under the seam using my finger instead of a brush.
  10. I use latex caulk as a glue in these situations and cut a very small hole in the tip of the tube, this also works great for sewing legs on lifesize and any other tight area you need to get glue.
  11. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    That's pretty much what I said except the syringe works better than the brush for me.
  12. Put the glue on the forehead and up around the neck and once the cape is sewn spread it under the skin. No big deal but yes everythig gets hide paste to include the area where the staples go into the backboard.