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Shop Floor advice needed. . . . .

Discussion in 'The Taxidermy Industry' started by Michelle_Nelson, Jan 24, 2015.

  1. Michelle_Nelson

    Michelle_Nelson Bring on the Bears!

    So I have been wanting to do something with my floor. It appears to be unsealed concrete. The surface does need to be ground down in some spots because it is uneven or has concrete pieces attached to it. Right now it is fairly rough.

    I would like to get it to a point I can mop it. Every hunting season I get blood and bear grease on it that I will have to wait until spring to bring in the pressure washer and wash the floor like I have been doing every year for the past several years. It's getting a little old. I'd like to be able to mop up the dirt, blood, bear grease, and salt frequently so my shop doesn't look gross. I try to do all the salting and fleshing on a tarp but I still manage to get a good bit on the floor.

    I was thinking I would either like to have the floor ground even and smooth and have the concrete sealed so blood and such doesn't soak in. OR. . . have it ground even and then have a GOOD heavy duty floor epoxy put down that is salt and chemical resistant. That way I can mop the floor.

    I would like to see what everyone has done with there floor. What they have done and what they used. Pictures would be great to.

    Thanks.
     
  2. ljones

    ljones 1994 wasco award winner

    If the floor is really rough It may be cheaper and easier to have a couple inches of new concrete poured on top of the old and have it power troweled to a slick finished and seal
     

  3. juli

    juli Active Member

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    I brought a large piece of linoleum in the shop to do my fleshing on - and duct tape all the way around.... The tarp idea works too, too... I like fleshing outside on a tarp when the weather is amenable.
     
  4. Michelle_Nelson

    Michelle_Nelson Bring on the Bears!

    That idea has been passed around. I'd have to remove a wall and figgure out what to do about the mad door and garage door. I have a about a 5" concrete footing all around the shop that would work great. Except that I added a wall, and the I have the doors.
     
  5. You can buy bags of floor leveler and do it yourself or have someone else do it (easier). Lowes, home depot, or a concrete plant sell it by the bag like cement and it mixes like cement or concrete and pours in the low spots and a float used to level the floor. Its not suppose to chip up in thin spots like adding cement. My dads a mason and I know hes used it to do repair and leveling jobs on concrete floors for people that didn't want the expense of a whole new floor. that may be an option for ya.
     
  6. Randy Miller

    Randy Miller Active Member

    Epoxie. Kits @ Nenards.
     
  7. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    You're still young, but as you get older you may wish to put comfort on top of your list. Standing on any hard surface all day will eventually catch up with you and your back. If I were you, I'd look into some of those rubberized surfaces. Personally, I like the rubberized "puzzle pieces", but they have gaps where dirt can fall into and you may not want that. Anything else that's harder and you'll probably be posting again in a few years about replacing your floor so you can keep your chiropractor bill down! Our bodies were not meant to stand on a rock solid surface for hours on end. I have several 1 3/4" anti-fatigue mats at my work-stations. But, the 1 3/4" difference means I have to be careful moving around in my shop w/o tripping. Hence the reason I'm looking into doing the whole shop in rubber!
     
  8. Michelle_Nelson

    Michelle_Nelson Bring on the Bears!

    Fish Art,

    I do have the rubberized floor mats in my shop in random places where I stand and work the most. But I want to protect the floor.
     
  9. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Instead of grinding couldnt you pour some of that self leveling stuff to get your floor smooth and level? Then sheet vinyl or whatever over that.
     
  10. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    my space is small. my brother had left over wood flooring. I put that down and then covered that with linoleum. going on a couple of years now. it seem to be OK.
     
  11. rigbobby

    rigbobby Active Member

    I used the epoxy in my salt room about 12 years ago, still holding up good. My mistake was to add course gravel to make it non-slip. Wish I had not done that.
     
  12. EA

    EA Well-Known Member

    Michelle,

    We used to "snap together" buildings using precast concrete floors. The sections didn't match up well, were very rough and had a 3" crown to them when spanning long distances. So before any flooring, door frames, etc could be installed, the floors would have to be leveled. Depending on the size of your floor and severity of it's roughness, grinding may be the cheapest way out. Grinding can be a [email protected] It's dirty, you cant get into corners, etc.

    Michelle B and others hit on a good option. On our jobs, they used a leveling mix we just called Gyp-Crete. I'm sure they have all kinds of names for the same stuff. It's a self leveling product that can cover deviations up to 3 inches. They pushed over 3" on occasion.
    I know it worked fine under carpet, vinyl, wood, ceramic, but before using it under epoxy I would check with the manufacturer. If your concrete has any cracks, the epoxy may also crack if just grinding. The Gyp-Crete may also fix crack issues, but that is another question for the manufacturer and the Epoxy Co.

    I have no idea what Gyp-Crete costs.

    http://www.maxxon.com/level-right/data
     
  13. gtout

    gtout Member

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    Garage floor epoxy works great and looks good too! Cheap and easy to do.
     
  14. RichMO

    RichMO Well-Known Member

    1,190
    80
    I worked for Monsanto and used different types of epoxy flooring to cover ph from 1 to 14. For the most parts an epoxy with 100% solids will cover this with no problems. The cost can be cheap or expensive it just depends on how much you are wiling to spend. If you grind the floor level this will generally leave the floor to ruff and a top coat will need to be applied. A good epoxy floor coating can be made ruff by first prepping the floor (check with the dealer before using a floor leveler if epoxy is used. It has to be a polymer based material) using a roller apply the epoxy then with a real fine sand sift this over the epoxy area and let dry. The next day use a vacuum cleaner to suck up the access sand (do not use a broom) then apply another coat of epoxy over the entire floor. If you don't want it that ruff you can add additional coats of epoxy letting it dry in-between coats. For a smooth floor just eliminate the sand.... a smooth floor is a lot easier to keep clean but can be slippery if not watched. If you need some product suggestions I'll get you some. Best thing with epoxy if generally last forever, is tough and can be repaired (is subject to chipping)using the same material. The best epoxy’s will always be a two part mixture.
     
  15. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Good points Rich! I've seen some garage floors done beautifully and lasting quality. And I've seen one do it yourself epoxy job that started breaking down after the first winter!
     
  16. Justin P.

    Justin P. Active Member

    2,632
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    I had my floor professionally prepped and epoxied. It wasn't cheap but like everything you get what you pay for. The more I researched do it yourself floor kits the more they lost their appeal. The floor prep is extremely important. My floor was a three coat process. I would highly recommend the silicate for texture / grip. There are a couple of spots on my floor that don't have much "grip" and they are very slippery spots. The floor is incredibly tough and has held up very well! It sweeps and mops up great despite the texturing.
     
  17. tomdes

    tomdes Me my dear and Fall BAZZ!!!

    Michelle,

    I would never use floor leveler, it's not durable enough. There are cement resins out there that are very durable, 3/4" is all you would need and it's just like cement, then I'd use the Epoxy coating that you posted above, I used that and it's great.
    The cement resin coating won't be cheap, but it will outlast a 2" coating of cement. Good luck..
     
  18. Before I quit the painting industry,I painted my floor with concrete paint. It was H&C concrete stain.I used the one that was xylene based and it is still holding up just fine, fact is I did one of my rental driveways over 20 years ago and it is just fading a little. You have to was the floor then etch it with muratic acid (BAD stuff; you will need a respirator for it) then rinse, let dry and paint. I finished mine with a spray design. You can buy stencil for just about any design you want and it is easier than it sounds. This floor being inside will last until it is tore up or the end of times, which ever comes first
     
  19. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I epoxy coated my floor when my shop was first built, did the acid etching and all the correct prepping. While it still seals out most everything, there are now patches $150 total. If the professional kits last longer, I would go with them. I think the salt didn't do nearly as much harm on my floor as the lacquer thinner that sometimes gets spilled onto the floor.
     
  20. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    If this isn't the truth I don't want to hear it! What I use is the thick rubber cow mats (made from recycled tires) you get at Tractor Supply. The last time I bought one it was about $50.00 or so. Very durable and well worth it. Being that I don't have any cartilage left in my lower back I can really feel the difference between concrete and the mat. Definitely look into it.

    Vic