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INDOOR Degreasing Condensation Problem Solved

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by Headshed, Jan 29, 2015.

  1. Hello Everyone,
    I had posted previously to include pictures of my new shop and setup. I built a completely new degreaser, set everything up, and as you all know and expect, had alot of moisture in the air. The plywood ceiling in my shop was constantly soaked, my windows were fogged and wet, and I was even finding condensation around outlets... EEEEK! Sooooo... I took a good hard look at my setup and started to tweak, and tweak, and tweak. I found no solution, I started trying things like finding a way to catch the moisture, block the steam, etc. No such luck.

    Then, Seawolf made the post "All that FAT!" and I got to tweaking some more. According to her post, if I were to be degreasing deer skulls, my temperature needed to be between 110-115. I started playing with multiple thermostats to record my temperature variance and found that using one 1500 watt 110v heater element, I was getting a high variance, from 105 up to 120. I noticed that when the temps were lower, there was less steam. When they were higher, the steam poured out of all the possible seams. So what did I do next?

    I started by tearing my degreaser down... ugh the work. Then I connected a second thermostat and heater element on the opposite end of the first. I adjusted the thermostats down to roughly 112 degrees. Guess what happened? The temperature variance leveled out and the lower temperature created less steam. But I still had alot of seams the little steam was escaping from. Soooo, I went out and bought a 2 inch piece of rigid insulation board, cut it to fit snug inside my degreaser, and cut holes for the buckets. Then, I got buckets with a more beveled appearance and when I put them in, they fit down snug to the hole I cut out.

    I can now officially say that I am degreasing indoors, in a larger degreaser, with nearly zero condensation. My shop is DRY, the windows are NOT fogged, and I still have it running in the negative temps when the shop heat is turned off with no water escaping. Chalk it up to lots of tweaking, tons of insulation, and good information from this site. Below are some pics of what the setup currently looks like.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for looking... Hopefully this helps someone else out. I'm no longer afraid of waking up to a fire caused by shorts in my electrical. Many thanks to Seawolf for always providing useful information.
     
  2. Hungry Bear

    Hungry Bear New Member

    11
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    This might be a dumb question or maybe I missed it in your other post but do you have anything supporting the foam insulation on the top. Does it just float on the water or are there supports underneath to help carry the weight of the full buckets?
     

  3. No supports, the insulation board is tightly fit into the tank which holds it up. The water is filled up to the bottom of the insulation board. The buckets are actually sitting on the bottom of the tank. The insulation board is up tight against the buckets, they have little to no weight resting on it.
     
  4. lokireptiles

    lokireptiles Member

    511
    4
    Headshed-

    Looks like you have a great solution with your double thermostat. It seems like you have your issues already solved. For those who may be having issues, here are some other steps you can take should you have other problems related to humidity or temperature control.

    What kind of thermostat are you using? If you are using a thermostat that is basically either ON or OFF , may be the cause of the temperature swings. The thermostat heats full blast until the temperature is achieved, then the temperature continues to rise until the element cools off.

    If you don't already have a small water pump circulating the water around the tub to equalize temperatures throughout the tub, this could also help.

    Another way of regulating temperatures would be the use of a proportional thermostat will give you much better control of temperatures. They basically work by pulsing electricity to your heating element effectively "dimming" the heat to the set temperature. Instead of turning the heater ON full blast then turning it OFF.

    One thing you can always add to fine tune your humidity is a dehumidifier. It can even be plumbed back into your sink or degreaser tub. With that in place you can control the humidity better if you find it's still too humid.

    You may find that over time if you have beetles it stays too wet inside their enclosure and you may see wood mites or other less desirable things from cropping up.
     
  5. David Jones

    David Jones New Member

    9
    1
    Can you update the pictures please?
     
  6. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    Headshed hasn't been on here in over a year but apparently the links still work for those pictures. Most Photobucket pics are 100% broken. The two pics from that post are below. There were also two other pictures that show the setup from the outside and the tank that he used
    IMG_20150129_105042_965_zps0db5ee83.jpg

    IMG_20150129_105017_381_zps67147759.jpg

    IMG_20151212_180355_496_zpsujh50erz.jpg

    IMG_20151212_014641_132_zpstx1f62my.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2018
    Megan :) likes this.