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1/4" rods for turkey

Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by DJ II, Feb 1, 2015.

  1. Anyone ever use 1/4" rods for turkey legs? I've always used 3/16" but in some circumstances it still isn't quite as sturdy as I would like. Only issue I see with using the bigger rod is getting it run down the toe.
  2. All the time...1/4" is all I use for Turkeys...a lot of people do not like using threaded rod...I have learned a few tricks in the past few years and can say I love it!! Running down the toe is not necessary!!

  3. I just used threaded rod and it broke at the base of the foot and let me tell ya its a nightmare now!
  4. Yeah I dont really like threaded rod. Always use smooth rod then tread the ends or bend over and staple. That's another reason I don't like 3/16" is the rod is so small that the threads are subjects to break if not careful.
  5. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Threadstock is pot metal and stresses very easily. Bend it once and hope. Bend it twice and forget it. Six gauge wire works fine. You don't need nuts and washers. Use rod stock and #12 screws to anchor them.
  6. B.S.O'Hare

    B.S.O'Hare Member

    I always use 3/16. Run it down the toe and thread it when you got it close to where ya want it!
  7. DL

    DL Well-Known Member

    Round off one end put it in a drill. You can run it up trough toe and up the leg in seconds.
  8. So much NEGATIVE on this site.......take a small propane torch and anneal your threaded rod before installing it in the leg, it will not break!!! I have bent it past "U" shape and never once has it broken!!
  9. joeym

    joeym Jeannette & Joey @ Dunn's Falls

    Absolutely...after once having to totally disassemble a bird due to rod breakage, I'll never us another threaded rod in a turkey leg!
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Please Rick. Stop that "negativity" crap. I ran a welding and metallurgy shop for years in service. You can't "anneal" threadstock. Neither can you temper it as it has no alloys. It has a low melting point and malleability so it can be impressed threaded in bulk. Up to about 1/2 inch, you can get one bend out of it. Put it in a vice after you "anneal" it, bend it 60° and then pull it back straight and see how "negative" my comment was.
  11. DL

    DL Well-Known Member

    Been there done that.
  12. DL

    DL Well-Known Member

    "The most common steel threaded rod, classified as ASTM A307, is Grade 2 threaded rod made from low carbon steel".
    If it's from China it could be lower than that.
  13. mimes

    mimes New Member

    George, can you please elaborate on the rod stock and #12 screw method? Thanks.
  14. DL

    DL Well-Known Member

    You use the screws as wedges. If you go from the bottom the screws dig into wire and pull it down tight.
  15. I didn't mean to cause an argument over threaded rod. I don't use threaded rod because of the issues mentioned. I have just thought of moving up from 3/16" to 1/4" smooth rod to make everything rock solid. I always try to run the rod through the middle toe to get the bird off it's heels and see the heavy 1/4" causing some difficulty. I have used the technique recommended by George before but I just like the neatness and ability to transfer the bird from a temporary to a permanent base with the threaded ends.
  16. Oh well I have better things to do in life than sit here and argue over what others say cant be done.......maybe some are just STUCK in their ways!!!!
  17. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Nailed it.

    Rick, there's a lot of things I'm guilty of but "stuck in my ways" ain't one of them. I LEARN from experience and don't try to pull the mask off the Lone Ranger. You just keep doing it "your way" and WHEN it happens, make sure you don't tell us who've tried to teach you a better way.

    DJII, if you leave the rod exposed and used the #12 screw, you can move it just as easily as trying to thread that washer and nut over that threadstock. If 6 gauge wire isn't enough for you, I'd suggest you buy 1/4 inch straight rod and a thread die (1/4x28) and then cut your own threads in the rod. Calley Morris used to do his that way - don't know if he still does or not.

    For you guys OPEN TO LEARNING, I'd like to recommend trying Mike Noonkesters turkey forms and wire sets. He's come up with a very novel way of wiring legs and wings where you don't have to stab yourself by pushing wires through the foam body and bending them. Each precut wire is imbedded in a plastic "capsule". The forms are made so that a 5/8 hole can be drilled into the foam about 2 inches deep. You wire all your legs and wings so that the capsule fits at the end of the bone you intend to seat against the form. When you're ready to fit them in, put some Gorilla Glue down the pre-drilled hole and seat the capsule into the body. When the glue cures, you can bend the wires any way you'd like. He also has a "butt plug" for the tail fan that is an exceptional idea for strutters. I won't ever go back to wiring a turkey again after using his method.
  18. Sounds good. Thank you sir.
  19. Matt

    Matt Active Member

    As George stated, 6ga wire and a couple inch drywall screws to anchor and your done. I used threaded rod for years, but never again, wire is easier to a manipulate once in the legs.
  20. TWinter

    TWinter Winter taxidermy

    Matt and george, you are drilling the srews from underneath along side the wire, through the hole, correct?