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who does not seal skulls?

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by born2shoot, Feb 14, 2015.

  1. born2shoot

    born2shoot Member

    who does not seal skulls?and why?
  2. bugsandbones1

    bugsandbones1 New Member

    I dont. Never met someone here that likes a sealed slull.... just an opinion but I'm not dna of the look. Of course it'll help keep it white longer.but 99 percent of ppl aren't paying to store it in a museum...

  3. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    I used to not seal them but mine get handled a lot and sit out in the open. Sealed ones stay cleaner, longer and don't pick up dirt and you can wipe them off with a damp rag if they do get dirty/dusty. A well sealed skull isn't going to look like it's covered in plastic. It should look just like normal bone. I have never had anyone ask me to do a gloss finish on a skull so I would also assume that people do not want this.

    I used to not seal them because it was just easier to eliminate that step. I also did not have the products available to me today. Stuff I had access to then was shiny, coated unevenly and at times was even yellowish in color or worse, turned yellow in time. New stuff available today is a thousand times better.
  4. roly

    roly New Member

    For the ppl that do seal skulls what do you use

    I was going to try clear krylon
  5. RTF

    RTF Active Member

    Nope. Never ............
  6. P araloid
  7. I do about 200 skulls each year. I hate the glossy look and don't even offer it. I prefer a sealed skull with a low sheen that is barely noticeable. Ten years or so ago, I found this product and will never use anything else. It takes about 30 seconds to spray on and looks perfect. I can't imagine not sealing a skull. It will collect dust over the years and look like crap in a couple of years and need redone. Unprofessional in my view.

  8. greatbasin

    greatbasin Member

    I do them both ways and let the customer choose.
  9. akvz

    akvz New Member

    I seal all large teeth (wolf/coyote teeth, etc.) with paraloid to prevent cracking. The actual skull is often left unsealed because I sell skulls and many people buy them for painting/carving and I believe Krylon and Paraloid would both interfere with carving/painting/etc. purposes.
  10. Leapin

    Leapin Member

    Mop and Glo works well
  11. I seal my skulls, but it's buyers choice. Either I use Paraloid, min-wax clear gloss, or min-wax clear matte. The Paraloid soaks into the bone and preserves it, both of the min-wax types sit on top of the bone and don't really absorb much. When I use the min-wax clear matte on the bone, you can't even tell it's been sealed, but if you decided to dust a non-sealed bone, the dust will mix into the bone and start to turn it grey. When they are sealed, they stay clean and white. I prefer the paint on sealers over spray cans, but both work. The problem with the spray can is that when using matte I can't even tell if I've hit every spot because it's literallly invisible. The gloss gives a nice look if it's sheened on right, I have one in each style on display and alot of people here pick the shiny.
  12. As a carver myself I can tell you that carving a sprayed (krylon) skull, would just flake all the sealant off. With a skull properly sealed in Paraloid, you would not notice any difference carving it than a non-sealed skull. Might have a different "texture" to the shavings, but even that I doubt. Want me to do a test? ;)
  13. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I used to not seal because it seemed like everything I used would yellow over a short time. I now use Paraloid.
  14. akvz

    akvz New Member

    Ha! It'd be interesting to know... maybe the paraloid even makes the carving easier because the bone is better supported! I've also learned on the other thread that maybe paraloid isn't the thing preventing teeth from cracking in my case, so maybe I'm sealing for no reason or should be sealing them entirely.

    I think paint might be a bigger challenge with sealants, it's easy enough to remove them with an acetone soak but I don't know how many people want to buy a sealed skull for crafts just to turn around and spend more money to remove the sealant.
  15. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    With painting, a good sealer actually helps. Much like you apply a sealer to wood as a base coat to make sure your finish comes out evenly. Otherwise, more porous areas of bone will absorb more paint/stain and be darker and more solid or dense areas of bone will be lighter as the stain just coates the surface. For soaking organic stains like tea, coffee, oak leaves etc, you don't want to use sealed bone but you might want to seal it afterwards to protect the colors and any artwork. Sealing after painting depends greatly on the type of paints/stains used. Acetone will remove or damage many so a sealer that is compatible with the paints should be used.
  16. I normally don't (and won't unless a customer requests it), but if I am restoring an old skull that is flaky (the kind that were boiled to death and/or soaked in chlorine bleach), pithy or porous from such cleaning damage and either the customer wants it or it is my skull, I will seal it with Minwax clear matte finish water-based urethane. I don't always do the teeth, I only seal them if I have done repairs to them, and then I use the same product but in a satin finish. I have skulls that I sealed years ago and they never turn yellow and don't chip or flake (of course, if there is grease in the skull that has to come out first, since just about anything would flake off then) and they look great. The Minwax essentially stops the flaking and crumbling of the bone.