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Lip Slot

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by bmangel, Feb 21, 2015.

  1. bmangel

    bmangel New Member

    I have been following Rick Carter's A-Z whitetail for my first attempt at a shoulder mount. As in the video I used a 1/8 bit with dremel and cut lip slot. It seems by not being super steady the slot is a little bigger than wanted. Is there any problems I might run into? Or should I proceed and just epoxie whatever little gap isn't filled after tucking. Will skin even stay tucked if slot is a little to wide? Just trying to avoid a disaster once the skin and glue is on and it's too late. Also I used an eppley replacement nose so that is not in the way of slot. I cut slot all the way around lip. Thanks!
  2. Bulldog 32

    Bulldog 32 New Member

    Try and tuck the lips without any glue. This will let you know if the slot is to wide and still be able to do something about it. If it is to wide use a small amount of clay to fill the slot. I use a 5 min epoxy on my lips. This cements the lips where I want them and don't have to worry about them pulling out during the drying process. I use a saw-zall blade to cut the slot in my forms. Dremel tool can be to aggressive I think.

  3. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    You want the slot thinner than an 1/8th of an inch. You want it tight, you want it to be hard to tuck, you want the foam to clamp the skin in, and a good glue is all that you need, and then over tuck the skin, plan on a little pulling, so over tuck the skin, no need for pins when the slot it tight. Thinning the lip skin with a dremel sanding drum will help it dry faster and stay where you want it, and be easier to tuck.
  4. jk

    jk Active Member

    I cut my lip slot with my skinning knife up at a 45' angle. I then widen the slot with my lip tuck tool by sliding it back and forth a couple times. I would say it is somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 of an inch, about 3/32 wide. I really thin my lips, smear the lip line with glue and over tuck a little. Check on day #2 and they are ready to go. By using my lip tuck tool it also creates a snug fit on the lips. Never seam to have any problems with lips pulling.
  5. JerseyJays

    JerseyJays Well-Known Member

    Same as jk said
  6. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I've been doing it with a drill bit and dremel for over 20 years with no issues. They key is to position yourself properly so you can make the entire cut without any pauses. I have never messed up a lip slot yet doing it this way. I also open up the corners of the mouth a bit more after doing the initial cut. I use Buckeye Supreme glue and do not experience any pulling. I do pre-stretch the face pretty well though before mounting. As long as the skin is not tight around the muzzle, then it should not pull out. I never use any pins on the lips nor do I ever have to come back and retuck afterward. I use a small bit, but I'm not sure the size.
  7. J Cook

    J Cook Cook Taxidermy

    I use the smallest lip cutting tool I have for deer, which is .050 inch.
  8. davehyer

    davehyer Active Member

    Smaller the better, I just use a thin modeling tool and make a slit all the way around. If its tight going in, its harder for it to pull.
  9. oldboar

    oldboar Taxidermy...do the impossible:)

    I'm going to chime in here...

    If I have to exert any undo pressure tucking in lips...that slot it too damn tight:( I tend to be heavy handed and rip, tear, break crap without trying. I got sick of sewing torn lips that tore while tucking.

    I also learned I thin my lip and skin of chin, muzzle etc...thinner than most. When you do that...there isnt anything with the power to "pull" period!

    I create a comfortable lip slot, tuck and don't pin.

    Skin prep is the cure....at least for me. NOT a TIGHT lip slot.

  10. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I tried to make a slot before using my lip tucking tool. It did not work as good for me as drilling it out with a small bit. It was actually to tight, which did not hold as good as the drilled out slot.
  11. Jerry Huffaker

    Jerry Huffaker Well-Known Member

    I do the exact opposite of this, I make a large slot with a drill bit , fill it with critter clay all the way around, coat with hide paste. The lip skin tucks in very easily, then you press , smooth and shape the clay in place. A small adjustment the next day and your locked in place.
  12. jhunter13

    jhunter13 Member

    I found a tip on here from George - sand a jig saw blade flat on both sides and make my lip slot with that. Works flawlessly
  13. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    A lot of options here then, so the poster should have no issues then if each of our techniques works for all of us.
  14. oldboar

    oldboar Taxidermy...do the impossible:)

    Great point Low T… Not to mention, depending on foam quality/manikin used, that lip slot can get widened out whether you you like it or not. Pressing in a little clay rectifies any gap there anyway not a big deal :)
  15. Harvestmoontaxi

    Harvestmoontaxi Lake of the woods walleyes

    Whatever method works for u. I use a jig saw blade embedded in a wooden handle. Lip skin is ultra thin and a high tack hide paste (Roman 555 PRO VOV)
  16. quest

    quest Member

    I use a thin modeling tool made out of metal to make my lips slot and use a small Flathead screwdriver to tuck my skin. Its all in how you roll your skin into the slot and work that skin around the slot. I too thin my skin and leave 1/4 to tuck and stretch the skin before tucking.
  17. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I'll add this: If the muzzle is a tight fit, even after pre-stretching, then a quick-set epoxy is the best choice for a lip line adhesive. I end up using epoxy on a one or two mounts every year for this reason, otherwise I just use Buckeye Supreme on the lips which is easier to work with.
  18. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    If the skin is tight on the face, you have the wrong form. Slack skin taxied towards the eyes and lip slot will not move.
  19. tem

    tem Well-Known Member