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Ped Mount backs

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by mrtubbs, Mar 19, 2015.

  1. mrtubbs

    mrtubbs Member

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    I have read over a few posts and have gotten some really good ideas on how I could finish the backs to my pedestals. I have used leather in the past and many different kinds of adhesives but I always have a problem with the leather pulling away from the back of the form an having a big air bubble behind it.

    If you are using leather on the backs of yours what kind of adhesive are you using?

    Also I have seen a few guys saying that they use textured spray paint on the backs. Do you guys just spray that right over top of the form. Do you need to do any form prep before spraying it.

    Thanks...
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    1,781
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    If I use leather, I use hide paste. I cut a slot around the back of the form, tuck the skin in, let dry, then glue leather to back, work out bubbles and tuck edge into slot, if done well, you don't even need to glue rope around the junction. Can't comment on painting the back itself, never done it. Finishing the backs of pedestals is only limited by your imagination.
     

  3. old guy

    old guy Member

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    I have used leather several times ,,get the back clean of wax or solvents,,with a good spray adhesive and it will stay only if you lay the thin leather in,,,and not stretch it. it you stretch it to fit,,it will pull and drum..hide paste works well too if it doesn't bleed through the leather and stain the show side. Lots of cool stuff to try,,different leathers,,have fun.
     
  4. I've been using Wilson art glue. It's the same glue used for laminating counter tops. You can usually get some at a local Cabinet shop or I've seen some at some select hardware stores. I scuff up the back of the manikin and spray it and the leather. When it tacks up I lay the leather on the form and start working it from the middle out. The good thing about this is you can pull it in areas that needs stretched.
     
  5. mrtubbs

    mrtubbs Member

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    I have never tried putting the slot on the edge to tuck the leather into, I am always trying to use hide nails to hold it so that should help out a ton.

    I will have to try that Wilson art glue as well. I have installed a couple of counter tops and I know that stuff is really good.

    I think that when I have had the problem in the past is on the backs that are concave and I try to stretch it too much.
     
  6. Jimmy Rimrock

    Jimmy Rimrock Yeah, they come to snuff the rooster

    If you spray fleckstone or other textured paints, it really helps to rough up the foam. If I go that route, which is quick and easy, I carve out some detail. Usually some breaks, gouges and crevices, just like a real rock oddly enough. I use a sturdy knife and "pry off" as much as I cut. The jagged edge breaks are what you want. You can also add in a couple thin broken pieces of foam to get more depth and detail. Limited only by your imagination. Sometimes I use some rock mix and paint mixed together to blend the edge.

    The "slot and tuck" works best on short hair critters and areas of short hair.
     
  7. On an elk pedestal mount we used Rock mix so it would look like a boulder sort of. We used acrylic paint with water to give it depth. I think it looked awesome when finished. The fur had been tucked into a slot around the back as others described. You must protect the fur at the bottom as you will be using water and it will drip. Tucking in a plastic bag to cover the fur works or you could use tape. For some reason I cannot post the picture on this site, but if anyone wants to see it I can email it.
     
  8. tomdes

    tomdes Me my dear and Fall BAZZ!!!

    Get Michael P's video on pedestal back finishing, you'll get a lot of great ideas and know now..
     
  9. jorgy

    jorgy Member

    contact cement