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Cape mounting questions

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Adrenalinepursuit, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. I'm Looking to see what people use to get capes to suck up to the form in all the definition lines of the muscle, around the face, etc. if you don't do anything, there isn't any definition of the muscles or anything. I've seen or heard different ideas but what's people's thoughts on it? Thanks
  2. cyclone

    cyclone Posts: 400001

    A quality prepared hide, thinned well, a good hide paste applied to a properly prepared adequately sized form. Taxi the skin into place and adjust it as it is drying..

  3. You can also use a syringe and suck out any air pockets that may have gotten between the hide and the form. You can feel the air pockets if you touch the mount. A large upholstery needle also works well for getting out air pockets. Just randomly poke the hide all over with it. Hope this helps.
  4. ShawnK

    ShawnK Don't take criticism to heart, it's a free lesson

    I use a brad air nailer and track in place as I go
  5. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I will add to what cyclone said. Remove the mold release "skin" from the mannikin. I have never had drumming and I rarely need a pin following those steps.
  6. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    As cyclone said above and a loose fitting cape. If you try to fit a smaller cape on a oversized form you will get drumming, simple as that. A dry preserved cape will want to shrink more as it dries then a tanned cape, might need a better 2 part paste that works with that type of preservative.
  7. KFLAH

    KFLAH Active Member

    With longer haired deer, you really won't see much definition.

  8. TomR

    TomR New Member

    The quality of the paste is key (along with ensuring the mold release is properly roughed). I use the Mckenzie paste with mount medix. Smells good, works really well, is water-baed, and allows you to get the definition upi want without the need to pin it.
  9. HAPP

    HAPP Active Member

    With that said...an early season, short haired cape will be best for what you are looking for in muscle definition.
  10. and that doesn't leave a bunch of indents all over the face. a good hide paste and thin cape is all that's needed.
  11. ShawnK

    ShawnK Don't take criticism to heart, it's a free lesson

    I don't use it on the face just around the brisket down the neck and down along the seam. It's Just easier for me for sewing the seam up. And holds the skin in the muscle detail area. Not saying it's the right or wrong way just how I do it.
  12. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    I run the lines with my fingers on the facial areas for the first couple of days. On the armpits, I card with backer rod and T-pins. On drumming areas, I make small punctures with a scalpel or sharp pointed knife to express air and excess glue.
  13. Wipe form with lacquer thinner, sand the form and remove all slick surfaces, this the skin well, and a good hide paste.