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brook repo paint schedule

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by naturalcreati40, Jul 3, 2007.

  1. naturalcreati40

    naturalcreati40 Active Member

    Hey guys, I have finally got my first repo brook order. Don't have a clue as to a paint schedule. I do very detailed work and love to build up my painting with a lot paint layers. Can I get some suggestions on who has the best, or where I can get a good brookie schedule? As always I appreciate all your help.
  2. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Here's my paint schedule for a skin mount brookie. Should work for a repro if you get the skin detail underneath first although you will have to paint the spots from scratch.

    Brook Trout Paint Schedule

    This paint schedule is for a brook trout male as he appears in full spawning colors when harvested in the fall to winter. Females and males that are harvested any other time of year, you may want to adjust according to reference if you prefer to paint them differently. Even females in spawning colors are more subdued than a male in spawning colors.

    Attempt to find a good color photo of a brook trout to refer to as you paint. One thing to keep in mind about a brook trout is the fins are quite thick. I would suggest at least three coats of fin coating on a brook trout. For competition work you may even have to fill in areas of shrinkage on brook trout fins with Apoxie Sculpt ot even better yet use cast fins. After carding the fins they have a tendency to warp due to the thickness of the fins. I counteract this by reinforcing the fin carding with strips of metal file folder hangers.

    Step 1.) Seal your fish with 2 flash coats and one medium coat of sealer.

    Step 2.) Off White: If your cast head is any color other than white or gray, white it out with Off White. Also white out the inside of the mouth of the fish. If you see any imperfections after whiting it out, now is the time to fill with Apoxie Sculpt and make adjustments. Let the Apoxie sculpt dry and then white out your adjustments to match the rest of the head. Sanding may be needed. If you have any darker blotches in the lower ¼ the body in the area where the skin is lighter than the rest of the body, sparingly use a little off white to go over these to match the rest of the light area. Paint the center of the belly of the fish. (bottom of the fish)

    Step 3.) Jet Black: Very lightly shade in the top of the head down to about the center of the eye to blend in with the back where it meets the head. This should be just dark enough to blend in with the back. Also if you have any areas of the skin above the belly that are lighter than the rest of the skin you can blend those too. Darken you adipose fin if you used an artificial one or you sculpted on in. If you need to blend in any repairs of the outer edge of the caudal fin (tail) you can do so with the black also.

    Step 4.) Chrome Pearlescent: Use this to silver on the gill cover and cheek a little on both sides of the head. This is very important to get a realistic looking head later on when you apply other colors.

    Step 5.) Bright Yellow: Very carefully and lightly use this color to bring out a little yellow on the back and a green tone down the sides fading it out at the lower ¼ of the body that will be a red/orange color. You should see the original spots on the side of the fish brighten up to a nice yellow if they are not already. Highlighting the yellow spots this way verses painting directly over them looks very natural. It also takes care of two tasks at the same time. You end up highlighting your yellow spots and you also create a green skin tone on the back ground of the fish. The adipose fin should be hit with this along with the dorsal fin. Seal this in with sealer.

    Step 6.) White: Very lightly make a few small dots spaced out in the appropriate area of the fish to start the setup up for your blue halos with red dots in the center. Use reference.

    Step 7.) Chrome Pearlescent mixed with Sailfish Blue: Mix this color until you have a sliver blue color. Spray this carefully directly over your white spots. (The red spot in the center of this will come later in the paint schedule)

    Step 8.) Bright Yellow and Gill Red: Mix this color until you have a red/orange color for the lower 1/4th of the fish. This color can vary somewhat. Some male brook trout only become yellow in this area but the red/orange is a striking color that really sets off the fish. Using reference shade this color down the side of the fish just above where the charcoal shading will occur. Use reference. Also paint all the ventral fins with this color except for the front of the fins where the white and black border will bee (see reference). The caudal fin gets painted this way also except for the bottom where the white and black border will be.

    Step 9.) Sealer: Seal your fish again to create a barrier to prevent colors from bleeding through your next colors.

    Step 10.) Red Permanent Sharpie Marker: Using a red permanent sharpie marker (must be permanent) and make a red dot in the center of your blue dots. Some of the yellow spots just above your orange area on the lower sides may also have red spots.

    Step 11.).Off white: Paint the front edge of all the ventral fins heavily and the bottom edge of your caudal fin (tail). Paint the jaw line of the head and the gill covers. With the fins edges use carding to make a distinct edge.

    Step 12.) Rich Brown. I use this color over the chrome pearlescent on the head followed by some black to make some variation. Use reference. What's fun is to use a very fine piece of steel wool in this area to get some special effects.

    Step 13.) Black: Paint over the white on the sides of the jaw, the rear edge of the maxillary bone and shade it slightly over the gill cover and cheek. Next add retarder if you need to paint in the black webbing on the top of the back that outlines the vermiculations. Note: if you used enough yellow in step 5 to give this area a yellow tone you will not need to directly individually paint in the yellow vermiculations. The black webbing will clearly define the yellow vermiculations as you already have a yellow background.. I prefer not to paint in the yellow vermiculations individually as they tend to appear painted when one does that. Remember your fish will always look better if you use what marking are left on the fish and tone in or shade in your colors.

    Continue to use this black to make a black edge just behind the white edge on the ventral fins. Also just above the white edge on the caudal fin (tail) Next turn your air pressure down to about 10 PSI or lower to create a pepper spitting pattern and paint just above the white belly where it meets the red sides. Use reference. An even more effective way to achieve this look is to cut off a flat brush to a stub and dry brush this pattern on. However you want to practice this on a flat surface before you attempt it on your fish. Black is also airbrushed into the creases of the lower jaw (where the soft tissue meets the jaw) in the mouth (see reference), and at an extreme angle over the branchiostegal rays to created a charcoal effect just on the tops but not in the grooves. The caudal fin (tail) also gets some minute markings on the top and bottom of the tail (see reference).

    Step 13.) Off White (Water base). Use a very fine artist's brush and paint by hand just behind the mandible, in the crevices on the cheek, and in between the branchistegal rays if necessary. If you get any where you don't want it quickly wipe off with a Q-tip and Windex. (This only works if your other colors are lacquer).

    Step 14.) Chrome Pearlescent: Optional. Very, very lightly paint on a coat down the side of the fish above the red area to give it a slight silver sheen AFTER YOUR FIRST GOOD GLOSS COAT or a few coats of sealer.

    Step 16.) Clear Coat your fish.

    Edit: I like to make the bold dark markings on the dorsal fin with a black sharpie pen.

    Commercial quality male brook trout just finished tonight. Not perfect but I know the customer will be ecstatic. Excuse the flash reflection. It was getting late and I needed flash.





  3. naturalcreati40

    naturalcreati40 Active Member

    thanks Cecil, you put a lot of time into your response. Thank you so much your're very kind.
  4. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Actually I just copy and pasted it from my documents. ;D

    I forgot one thing. I like to to put in the bold dark markings on the dorsal fin with a black sharpie marking pen.