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Some questions related to trubond 1000b & general tanning

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by cervicapra, Aug 3, 2015.

  1. cervicapra

    cervicapra New Member

    Hello Friends,

    Consider me as an ignorant student, here are my questions (i have searched a lot through the forums, but still confused)

    Because i am starting with a flint dried (plain air-dried, without salt) skin, my plan is to rehydrate (salt + water), then citric acid pickle (salt + water + citric acid), neutralize, then trubond 1000b, finally oil. I am confused on the following points, and request experts to enlighten me.

    1. For tanning a deer hide (56 inches long, 36 inches wide) with hair-on (this is for a rug sort of thing & not for mounting), will a pint of "trubond 1000b" be enough ? or do i need to order a quart ?
    1.a) How many coats of trubond do i need to apply, is 1 coat enough, or after the 1st coat, dries, do i need to reapply again for two more times?

    2. Do i need to use any oil after tanning with trubond 1000b? Trubond's website sells a lubri-stretch oil, is that needed or can i use some vegetable oil instead ? I am planning on using either olive oil or gingelly (sesame seed) oil (both easily available here), will that work ?

    3. Which is the best way to re-hydrate an Air Dried (its unsalted, it was simply air-dried in a controlled environment - also called flint drying, no salt was ever used). A typical rehydration solution calls for 1lb salt to 1 gallon water, will that be enough, and for how long (is a disinfectant necessary, as many here say it takes a long time to re-hydrate an air dried skin, and long soaking may allow bacterial growth)?

    3.a) do i need to use any de-greaser for an axis deer hide ? Do i need to use a fabric softner (like downy ultra) for quick rehydration?

    4. If it has minor fat sticking to the skin, can i remove them after rehydration but before pickling or do i need to pickle, and then remove excess fat, and then pickle again?

    5. Once tanned, can i wash it, leave it as it is in room temperature (this for a rug sort of thing), or do i need to freeze it after its tanned or something like that ?

    Thanks in advance
  2. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    You can hydrate in plain water to speed up the process, salt slows it down some.

    Question : 1 can't really say but there is a web site that tells you probably the coverage. I buy it by the 5 gallon so I never see what it may need. If I was you the quart is cheaper than a pint.

    2: If it's just going to be a rug not really for the B has oil added to it. Also I would not use those oils only neats foot or mink is fine table oils I would stay away from.

    3: Answered above, it can take 8-16-24 hours depending on the hide. In a salt solution you can leave it in there for 48 hours safely but once a hide is hydrated get it into the pickle. I don't use any bactericide in my hydration process.

    4 no degreasers are needed for deer.

    5: It should have had all the fat removed prior to air drying, you will get what we call grease burn and that's hard to do anything about it. I would after hydrating it get as much fat off of it for the pickle won't process through the fat.

    6 Once tan a rinse is fine but the hide should be broke to be made soft of your not worried to making it real soft then no breaking needed but as it's drying (that is the tanning agents are on it and let there over night) I will stretch the hide by my hands till all the tanning agents are absorbed. Only then you should be able to just take a rag with mineral sprite on it and wipe any of the oils on the hair side. You don't need to wash it. If a hide needs a wash I will do it after it's been in a pickle for three days. I will wash it then if it's that bad and then probably make a new pickle for the hide.
    Most of my hides are well rinsed and clean before I pickle them. After I hydrate I will rinse them pretty clean. There are many ways of doing this and all will work.

  3. cervicapra

    cervicapra New Member

    Thanks a lot frank for the answers.

    I noted down various things from different posts in the forum, and few more confusing points remain, kindly forgive my ignorance. Here they are -

    1. How much gallons of water should one use for a big sized full deer hide(56 inches long), people have reported using 8 - 10 gallons for a full deer hide ? Should it be like enough water to submerge the hide or is there a suggested minimum/maximum ? How much is the typical usage (any numbers would help here).

    2. In the older forum posts, i found various combinations of salt & water for Rehydration - 1/2lb salt per gallon water, 2 lb salt per gallon water, 2/3lb salt + 2 oz citric acid + 1 gallon water, 4lb salt per gallon water, 1lb salt per gallon water. So such a variance for a rehydration formula makes it confusing. Could anyone suggest a good working formula ?

    3. Somebody said (here) that reducing the PH slightly during rehydration helps, for this adding 1 oz of citric acid per gallon was suggested. (Yes! its was the RE-HYDRATION stage and NOT PICKLING). Trubond's website (&facebook notes) too suggest adding 1oz citric acid (per gallon water) during Rehydration as a natural bactericide. As mentioned, someone here in the forum too had suggested something similar in the past. I am not questioning the experts, but i don't know which path to take, kindly advice & teach me.

    4. Few people, in the forum posts have suggested using dawn fabric softener during rehydration (& have reported success too), Justin from trubond was nice enough to email me with some answers, & responded to me saying that i should stay away from dawn and rather use lipasolve-55. I don't question him, but just curious about the right way ? kindly advice.

    5. Justin from trubond suggested, that after rehydration, i put the hide in the pickle for 3 days & then do the remaining fleshing. Some past posts second justin's opinion by mentioning something very similar & then suggest putting the hide back into the pickle after fleshing/shaving. Probably i am confusing degreasing/defatting wth fleshing/membrane removal/shaving. Please correct me.

    6. Once the hide is tanned & is broken, should i then allow it to dry completely (this is for a rug) ?

    Kindly note, i am not pitting one taxidermist against another, i just want to do things right. I understand that different taxidermists have different methods, but as a layman i need a good working advice. I apologize if i have offended anyone, and its not intentional. Forgive my dumb questions, and kindly teach me.

  4. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    8 gallons should be fine the hide needs to float in the pickle. I always have a 30 gallon mixed pickle on hand at all times so I don't get skimpy on my pickle.

    I hydrate in plain water, that's all you need. Salt in the water just slows down the hydration process.

    Yes you can do that in an aid if your hides are iffy. I don't but that is not a wrong process. Like I said there are many right ways of doing things. Just find what works for you. I do many different ways for myself and only for myself. It's not warranted to give this on the net. I stick with advice where a person shouldn't have a problem. Reading is good but it looks very confusing to you. Slow down and relax, it's not brain surgery here. Aubrey is a good person who knows tanning well.

    Yes lipa-solve is fine. The only time I use fabric softener is in hydrating a dried tanned hide.

    Ok I suggest you get as much fat off first before you pickle. Then pickle for three days, drain, shave, degrease back in pickle over night. After that next day drain , neutralize then you can tan.

    Once the hide is about 85% dried then you start breaking it, then it will finish drying.
  5. cervicapra

    cervicapra New Member

    Thanks a lot, will try it out