1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

Fleshing wheel set ups

Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by duxrus, Oct 25, 2015.

  1. duxrus

    duxrus Active Member

    Here is my new fleshing box I had a friend make me and wanted to hear opinions on what you bird brains look for in a fleshing wheel set up. I just don't understand the small ones that are sold without a box and only a small "spray" shield. To me those would cause huge messes to clean up every time used. I have a fleshing wheel/box set up I have used since about 1994 but decided to add some ideas to this new one to make it more user friendly. I do hundreds of birds yearly so wanted to cover all my bases this go around.


    This one has

    * Shut off switch up front for easy shut off in emergencies (if Wheel grabs the skin, just in case)
    * Larger dimensions to make working with larger birds less of a hassle
    * Higher wheel for more elbow room (might also move the wheel more to left to add more room for lg birds)
    * Will have a built in light addition on top
    * Fiber glassed for easy clean up
    * 1/4 hpr motor
    * 4" extension to motor shaft so you aren't cramped against the back wall

    I was just wondering what others saw as important features I may have over looked ? Opinions Plz
  2. bucksnort10

    bucksnort10 Well-Known Member

    Are you painting the interior?
    If so white would help brighten it up for visibility.

    What are your plans for lighting?
    I have seen a couple designs with extra lighting on the ends (through clear plastic end pieces) to help illuminate the bottom of the wheel where you are fleshing.

    I really like the switch up front. I should do that on mine.

  3. duxrus

    duxrus Active Member

    We are just mounting a light on top to brighten the interior of the box. The one I have used for ever just has a simple desk lamp on top. The built on light will add twice the light. The box is fiber glassed and I don't plan on painting it. I figure the wood color would mask the dirtiness of a used box compared to a lighter color but I see your point.
  4. rbear

    rbear Well-Known Member

    I have only done a few birds and was trying to come up with ideas on how to build / improve my first wheel. One of my thoughts was to have it run on a dead man foot switch like a Fordum tool. That way if you get in trouble it could be switched off immediately. Thanks for posting your new wheel.
  5. I have a foot switch really like it.Allows me to maintain control with both hands at all times.
  6. vmax

    vmax Member

    Looks good!!

    I might move the on/off switch to the back wall with the switch face sitting horizontal. Were it is now might be an issue shile working on a bird and turning it off with your elbows....LOL

    IF you do paint it white use a high gloss for easier cleaning. I might even run a bead of latex caulking on all the interior corners and smooth out with your finger, before painting, to help with ease of cleanup.

    The back spacing was going to be my question, but you said it has a 4" extension on motor shaft......how much back spacing does that give you?

    What RPM is the motor turning?

    What's in the upper left corner on the case? Looks like a flat piece of plywood, what's it used for?
  7. duxrus

    duxrus Active Member

    Not sure how a switch up top or anywhere other than the front would be an easier spot to get to whether you use an elbow or hand? ;) I have tried both and didn't like either. Anywhere else and you would have to stand up to hit it. As far as it being in the way, can't see that as ever being an issue or how you would hit it while fleshing something. I can see how there would be advantages to a foot plate.

    I would say the wheel is about 6-7" from the back. This gives more room to work when dealing with geese, swans, or turkeys.

    Even with my old desk lamp on top, light really wasn't an issue so color of box would be preference over need. Silicone doesn't last that long (will peel off eventually) and the fiber glass seals the cracks anyway.

    The piece of wood catches the fat (goo) as the wheel spins it off instead of coating on the plexiglass.

    It runs around 1725 rpm's and I use a coarse brush. Some are dead set on only a soft one but I have changed to the harder one over the years. Both just take a lot of practice

    Like I said I wanted my setup to cover all my bases from a sparrow to a trumpeter .... Space and power for all scenarios.
  8. dmac1175

    dmac1175 Active Member

    I am thinking about rebuilding the box on my flesher and making it out of melamine wood. That is the white shelving material. I think it would make for much easier clean up as it wouldn't soak up the grease into it like plywood does.
  9. duxrus

    duxrus Active Member

    Thats why i fiber glassed it ;)