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Mounting a deer skull with lower jaw to a panel??

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by WTT03, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. I have deer skull that the person wants mounted to a pedestal panel with the lower jaw attached. I have to admit that I've never done this mainly because I personally don't care for the look. Be that as it may, the guy wants it so I'm doing it. Attaching the lower jaw isn't the issue, it's attaching the it to the pedestal panel that I've got a problem with. How do you guys/gals do it? He wants it so that the lower jaw is the only thing touching the panel itself (so that the angle of the finished mount would be the same as a top only skull mount, if that makes sense). I have a couple of ideas on how to do it like using a bolt through the panel then through the base of the skull using a lock or jam nut to hold it in the position desired, however this won't secure it enough to keep it from rotating on the panel. I'm sure some of you guys out there have done this before and have a great ingenious way of handling this problem! Anyone care to share their solutions?? Pics are always better! Thanks in advance!
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    I use a dowel into spinal opening and then a toggle bolt into skull. It's going no where.
     

  3. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    ill try to explane my way. bear with me. I get a 4 or 5 inch screw from lows. there brown in color. I don't know the name of them. never bothered to look. I drill a small hole ( smaller than the screw ) in the bottom of the skull. just under the spinal hole. the skull is very strong in this area. I screw it through the wood in to the skull. tightens down good and holds every thing in place. my brother in law likes this look with the jaw also. so I do all of his this way. not one has fallen yet. its been a few years on a couple of them. sorry I cant give you the dimensions on the screws. there in the nut & bolts area at lows.
     
  4. Thanks for the replies!

    tem, I do the same on my skulls without the lower jaw. Doing it that way though pulls the base of the skull (near the spinal hole) tight to the panel and causes the nose of the skull to tip up with the lower jaw in place. The guy wants to avoid that and have the jaw bone flat on the panel. Like I said, I think I can run a bolt up through the panel into the same area as you noted and fix it at the height I want with a jam nut but it wants to spin on the panel doing it that way. Doing the way you mentioned (without the lower jaw) the teeth kinda grab the panel and help it stay put but with the lower jaw there's nothing to "grab" the panel but smooth bone.

    3bears, I see what you're saying using 2 points to stop rotation but doesn't that also pull the spinal opening tight to the panel? Like mentioned above, the spinal hole will actually be in the air a little bit in the position this guy wants. I was thinking about putting a screw through the panel then into the lower mandible (pre-drilling of course) to stop the rotation, but not sure how well that bone will take a screw. Correct me if I'm wrong in trying to understand how you do yours.

    I also thought about epoxy under the lower jaws to secure it to the panel where they touch (in addition to the above mentioned screw technique) but not sure how noticeable it'd be plus if it ever needs to be removed for some reason....could cause a problem.

    Still open to suggestions and listening!! Thanks again!
     
  5. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    No it doesn't pull the back of the skull down. The skull actually hangs on the dowel, you have to drill a hole at somewhat of an angle. Just like hanging a skull on a nail, gravity holds it there and the bolt up through the skull cinches it down.
     
  6. Okay I see what you mean now, thanks! I wasn't picturing it correctly before.
     
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    The only way to do that lower jaw without it ending up in a clusterflock is to use a method Michael P has in the tutorials.

    On the underside of the skull (in the palate area), take a Dremel tool and cut a 1x2 square hole up into the brain cavity. Insert a 1x2 firring strip into the hole and push it up against the skull. Mark a line on the strip where it exits the skull.

    Drill several 1/2 inch holes through that tab end of the strip. Mix Bondo and chopped fiberglass with a bit of fiberglass resin to make it runny. Pour it into the skulll through the opening. Take some and putty through the holes in the firring strip and push the strip into the skull. Let cure. As soon as it gels, trim away any Bondo that has oozed out.

    Set the bottom jaw in place on the skull and with some 5 minute epoxy, glue the bottom jaw in place.

    On a plank, cut out a 1x2 hole in the center. When the jaw is cured in place, set the firring strip down through the plank until the jaw sets flush with the plank. Carefully mark the firring strip at the point it goes through the plank. Remove the skull and cut the firring strip.

    Get you panel and set the skull in place. Carefully mark around the firring strip where it contacts the panel and remove the skull.

    Predrill 2 holes in the outlined square on your panel. Countersink them on the back side of the panel.

    Set you skull back on the panel and use 2 inch drywall screws from underneath into the firring strip. It will hold your skull in place and won't twist or turn with the 2 screws securing it.
     
  8. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    It ain't the only way George. Michael's way works but so does mine.
     
  9. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    There certainly are other methods used and I've used most of them. Once I tried Michael's, I stopped. All the others trnd to have issues of wobbling, alignment, or exposed hardware. Especially, with using the lower jaw, those other methods tend to produce shoddy results. Try it once and you'll see why I said that.
     
  10. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    I have tried it George, that's how I know it works, but I didn't care for cutting a portion of the skull away. If I could post a picture on this damn site I would post a picture and you would see there is no exposed hardware, the only thing visible is a walnut or oak dowel that goes into the spinal opening.
     
  11. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    LMAO I feel your pain
     
  12. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    what I do to keep it down is I get a thinner screw and pre drill a hole in the bottom of the upper mouth. then screw it through the wood and in to the mouth. don't screw to tight. just snug. this will hold it down and flat. but I also do as George does. epoxy the jaw to the skull and to the board.
     
  13. Thanks for all the replies!
     
  14. KatieC

    KatieC Active Member

    I know this is an old thread but I have a couple questions. Does anyone have the link to Michael P's tutorial for this that George mentioned? It didn't come up in my search but this thread did. Also, any recommendations on what type of epoxy to attach the jaw, concerned about it being visible or looking yellow. I have some 5 minute Gorilla Epoxy if that will work. Just had a customer request one of these for the first time and trying to figure out the best way to do it.
     
  15. Stuart

    Stuart Member

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  16. Stuart

    Stuart Member

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    Hi katie, It's there in the tutorial section, about the 4th or 5th one down. Titled " The 5 hour European Mount"
    Not sure if the pictures are there anymore..
     
    KatieC likes this.
  17. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    The Gorilla stuff turns white. Not sure about it discoloring. You could also use a good grade of silicone. It can be patted smooth with a wet finger before it sets up and I would use it from the inside of the jaw line where it will not be seen. If the customer changes his mind it could also be removed with some work. If there is any grease left in the bone, I think any brand of glue will fail in time.
     
    KatieC likes this.
  18. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    Katie, I have a skull with the lower jaw on a plaque that I did years ago. I just use Elmer's glue to glue the jaw halves together, and to glue the teeth in and then use the same glue on the molars and set the skull on the lower jaw and use rubber bands to hold it while it dried. Once dried I used a half in hardwood dowel to hang it on the plaque.
     
    KatieC likes this.
  19. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

  20. KatieC

    KatieC Active Member

    Thanks everyone! I didn't realize the tutorial would be so close to the top of the page since it's an older one. Too bad the photos don't show anymore.