BESSMAID DRY PRESERV VS WET TAN

I keep looking for the "LIKE" icon.

 

If you think tanning with Krowtann is just as hard and just as much work or AGGRAVATING when tanning with alum and or LutanF then I cant help you.


Krowtann= No salting, NO rehydrating after salting, No pH control, NO prior pickling process and shaving between pickle and tan since there is no pickling required. No nighttime worrying on pickle and or tan pH levels while you sleep. No water temp control during the tanning process, as we MUST have when tanning with alum tans.

I will say it again, Krowtann is a lazy mans way of tanning. I'm NOT talking about every step that is required prior to and after tanning, no matter what tan you use as in fleshing and splitting.

 

LAZY. who you call en lazy? lazy is a young man out of school still liven with ma & PA and doesn't want a job. lazy is a Loafer liven off the backs of the tax payers. I'm glad for krowtann. yep. it eliminates some of the work. which means i have more time for the farm.

 

Krowtann=Time Saver=Money! CJ Herring you can continue being a Chemist, while I use Krowtann the money making product, which saves from all the extra stuff you CHOOSE to do based on the products you CHOOSE to use!!! Nothing lazy about Krowtannm, it's called work smarter...not harder!! Maybe you should just send your stuff out to get it tanned or tan it with the many products that don't require all the steps that it sounds like you are whining about having to do! ;D It almost sounds as if you envy Krowtann users!

 

Hold the friggin phone. Before you guys who worship at the alter of Krowtann start talking "smarter" and "cheaper", just what made you fall off the DP turnipbtruck? LiwuiTan, Curatan, JRTS, and PT work well, require only fleshing, salting, and painting on while allowing you to mount the skin in one day. DP used with StopRot allows you to mount IN half a day. And about 2 of you are capable of supplying a feasible argument on exactly what a modern " tan" consists of. Damn I miss Glen Conley.

 

What part do you not understand that I use Krowtann? Even George can tell you that! Dont you remember him telling me Im playing with my ass using Krowtann when I could be using Lutan instead? ;D

And here I thought we were on the same page when it came to using Krowtann.

 

George quite frankly DP scares the hell out of me

 

It shouldn't. With the chemicals and the products available today, a DP mount can last as long or longer than any of the tans or almost tans out there. I have a mount that's over 30 years old in my family room that I shot on my and Connie's first hunt together. It looks as good (or bad) as the day it was mounted. Here's a recent photo of a piebald doe head I found in a trash bin and mounted nearly 40 years ago. It still hangs on my dad's back porch/Florida room. It used to hang with two others tanned ones that were destroyed by dermistids. I'm told by educated people that the borax wouldn't be effective in keeping dermistids out, but this one was still there two weeks ago and the other two have their antlers setting on top of the freezer there.

 

I don't care to take the side of DP. I am no pro just a commercial taxidermist who likes to compete sometimes. I'm only going on my 4th season. I took in 80 deer this season at a marginally higher price than most of the locals. But I can say I've done what I consider good at my level in competition with DP mounts. I don't feel the quality of a dp mount is any less than tanned. I like the softness of tanned hides and I like the extra time I get but as far as longevity I think it's been proven dp will last as long or outlast a lot of tans. As far as shrinkage I get my tear ducts closed and my skin to the glass on my eyes and rarely get pull away, I think that's all in the thinning and prepping.

 

I agree, tans have a nice feel to work with, but if you don't get it thin enough while using either a tan or DP, it doesn't matter, it's going to shrink more than desired. After all it's the membrane that does the shrinkage ie if there's too much membrane left, it's going to shrink. lol

 

I totally agree with you George. I have been doing taxidermy for almost 50 years and have tried both the DP and tanned methods and settled on the DP method and that is all I have used for the last 30 years with none of the so called DP issues that people speak of since. Early on that was not the case which is why I tried the tanning process for a short while. The one thing I did learn is not all DP formulas are the same and there are or were some who did cause more extreme reactions than others . I used one once from Van Dykes that was so extreme that you could literally see the hide shrinking b4 your eyes . It would draw the moisture from the hide so fast you could not mount it fast enough. When it did get mounted you could hear the stitches popping from the pressure it caused from the hide. Also the cracking around the eyes and nose areas would manifest itself. I started trying other brands of DP that cause less reactions and settled on the one I have used for the last 30 years with no problems at all. I would probably recomend tanning the heavier type hides as moose and elk although I have DPd some elk in the past. As for deer and small game the DP method works fine for me and I have had a policy for the last 20 years that if an item I have done needs repair or touching up due to a flaw in my workmanship I will fix it at no cost. How many have I had in those 20 years ? NONE.....Now am I saying tanning is not needed ,,,no but in my world it is a unneeded extra cost and time use I do not need. Rather than get into a long pros and cons of DP and tanning I would just say use what works for your business and needs.

 

George
What happened to JRTS That at one time was your choice for deer

 

Rinehart kept dicking around with the recipe. The old product went on like a good hand lotion, left the hide smelling good and clean with a soft texture to the skin while mounting. The last batch I got had a harsh chemical smell, had separated into two layers that had to be agitated, and then felt like some sort of grit had been added to it. Several companies had similar products . I suspect LiquiTan would have worked just like JRTS but they hedged the bet on their advertising. Headquarters Supply toyed with several recipes they allowed me to try, but the one they used in their PT was VERY similar to the old JRTS. As long as I get the same results, I'll stick with them.

PT, however, is very oily and the hide must be degreased after tanning in order to get the hide paste to work well. It washes off quite easily at room temperature, unlike the last JRTS.

 

You guys doing DP, are you salting your hides?

 

No salt needed.

 

i have tried dp liqua tan and mckenzie tan
i like the liqua tan better no shrinkage
lot of shrinkage with mckenzie tan
will have to try the lutan