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Pedestal backing

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Ncole, May 16, 2016.

  1. Ncole

    Ncole New Member

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    I was wondering what everyone uses for glueing felt to the back of forms? Everything I've tried soaks through and shows.
     
  2. ortegageno

    ortegageno Active Member

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    Felt sucks lol. I played hell with it ONE time, never again. Much easier just to rock the back. 10 min worth of working time and it's done.
     

  3. woodsbaby

    woodsbaby New Member

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    Same here except I use authentic Chesapeake bay beach sand on the backs of mine (live right by the bay). customers love having a bit of the Chesapeake on the mounts. situate mount so show side up and glop a bunch of elmers glue on it and pour sand on. take deer hooves and press some prints in for a bonus.... let sit for a day then reverse and blow loose sand off. always a hit over here.
     
  4. I like to use pigskin leather. It stretches, comes in a lot of different colors, and I think looks better than felt.
     
  5. Any spray adhesives for felt. No liquid to soak through.
     
  6. Lone Wolf AK

    Lone Wolf AK Lone Wolf Taxidermy and Wildlife Artistry

    I use leather and a thin coat of contact cement. I also pre-cut the leather before I mount so I have an exact fit after mount is dried.
     
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I use doeskin leather and contact glue as well. Rough your back and paint a coat of contact glue on it. Then spray the leather with the better grade 3M spray adhesive. Let them both dry to the touch. Roll the skin on carefully because when they make contact, they're STUCK.

    Now this is personal so just take it for what it's worth. On my pedestals, I take a Dremel and a small drill bit and I cut a deep groove all the way along the edge of the form (always pointing the drill bit towards the center of the form. I rough the back and then paint contact glue on it. After I install the leather, I cut off the excess, leaving about 3/4 inch overhang. I tuck this hide into the groove. Then I take a piece of freezer wrap plastic and put it over the leather. I tuck it into the grooves over the leather. When I mount my deer, I don't worry about hide paste or trying to get the leather under the hair. I pull the hide back on the mount and temporarily pin it down along those edges. I leave about an inch of hide overlapping the back. Then I tuck the hide into those same grooves, groom the hair, and let them set until the mount dries. When the hide is dry, I simply tear away the plastic freezer wrap.
     
  8. I have used fleck stone ( textured paint ),, get it at wal mart, go figure right !!,, sand the back of the form , paint it flat white, when dry spray the textured paint on , done, then mount the skin, comes in many colors too.
     
  9. I basicly do the same thing George does. Only dif is i tuck the skin when i mount it. Let dry then go back and put the felt/leather on and tuck in same grove. I do it that way because i have a little more room to work with after the skin has dried.
     
  10. George1419

    George1419 New Member

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    Tn.
    The stone paint is the best for me unless the customer request something different, I spray it right on the form with a light coat let set over night then spray a 2nd and 3rd coat making it look thick, it's very simple and quicker than the leather for me.
     
  11. sgsmith

    sgsmith Member

    We have used flocking, it is simple to put on quick and easy, looks good. We use our flocking system that is used on artificial velvet. Also will put on a leather covering like George uses.
     
  12. Ncole

    Ncole New Member

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    Thanks for all of the replies. I've been doing buckskin and like the way it looks I just wanted to be able to offer some other options.
     
  13. jason.fairbanks

    jason.fairbanks Member

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    Thanks for the input George. I have been carefully cutting the edge with a scalpel. I have been getting better results than my first couple of attempts but not the sharp clean lines I was after.
     
  14. Ncole

    Ncole New Member

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    I've been making a cut around the edge also but one thing I do a little different is I spread bondo over my cut and make a cut through the bondo before it hardens. Then sad it smooth. It gives me a nice solid edge to tuck my hide and leather into without worrying about breaking the foam.
     
  15. I use the 3M spray adhesive.
     
  16. ruff up the form back and about 6 in around the edge, real good and deep (wire wheel in a drill). Pick a type and color of fake leather you like and cut it 4-6 in bigger then you need. Soak in hot water for a few min it will get stretchy and vary flexible. Cover the back with latex calk vary thick 1/4 in or so (you can tint it to match the color of the fake leather). Take the fake leather out of the water and dry of the extra water, working from the middle out put it on the back working out to the edges and over the edge of the form, over lap 4-6 in. You will have to make some small slices in the leather to fit it around the edge, a lot of small cuts in the arm pitt and brisket area. Work the calking outwards to the edge with a soft bulky dry rag. Pin the edges make adjustment and let dry. It will take a few days to dry, keep and eye on it and adjust as needed when drying. Don't work out to much calk you want it a bit thick under the leather. Let dry.

    Mount you WTD. Do all your work but do not glue any of the hide past the neck if wet tanned and let it dry out a bit but still flexible. I use latex calk and glue the hide and Pin it to the edge after it dry a little. Baby sit it until dry and trim it. Hot glue piping / rope around the seam between the hide and leather.

    Now you can charge $200 more. This adds less then 2 hours to a mount and cost $10 in materials.
     
  17. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

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    Used all the above and also a piece of floor tile, 24+24 self stick that I use on a flat back form that I make into a pedestal. A few patterns and colors resemble rock.