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Apoxie sculpt finish work ?

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by DogSoldierChick, May 24, 2016.

  1. I've noticed when I do my inner eye detail, inner nose etc the day before I paint it looks good when I walk away but when I go to painting I sometimes notice it seems to have pulled or cracked away. Ever so little but still enough not to be smooth. And not always just sometimes.

    I mix equal parts and smooth in with alcohol on a paint brush. Is it something I'm doing wrong? Something I have to learn to live with? Should I mix clay in?
     
  2. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    Are you using water to thin/smooth? This will rehydrate the skin and cause some movement at times.


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  3. Jon S

    Jon S Well-Known Member

    What Jared said, and is everything bone dry before you start the finishing?
     
  4. verne

    verne Well-Known Member

    Try apoxy clay ; never had that problem and there's no shine when dry . Never had it pull away from my work like that . Is your mount fully dry. ???
     
  5. Museum Man

    Museum Man Well-Known Member

    I also think its the alcohol that is causing the drying problem...I always use only water to smooth out the apoxie sculpt and have never had it crack or pull away
     
  6. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    Could that possibly be because you don't fiddle with it long enough, or get it real wet. I have had her experience using water, mostly inside the nose. Never with alcohol.



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  7. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    I missed that you said you use alcohol in your original post. I'm wondering if this is happening with your dp capes, and if you use hide paste under the eye and nose skin where it tucks?


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  8. George1419

    George1419 New Member

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    Happen to me once, the cape was not completly dry, need to wait at least a week sometimes longer if it's real humid or cold in your shop. This time of year here in Tennessee it will dry quick if you don't bag the head but the humidity here sometimes can cause problems also, can't remember the name of the liquid I use from Mckenzie with the apoxy sculpt but it is sort of slick feeling and works great, alcohol dries really fast, this could be a problem, I would use just water instead of alcohol.
     
  9. George1419

    George1419 New Member

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    Just remembered, safety solvent, it works great.
     
  10. I may have just been rushing it. It seemed as if It was done but On the ones I noticed it happen they may not have dried a full 7 days. I use alcohol never used water.

    I thin my capes way down and rarely get pulling from the glass on my eyes. I noticed it last week in the nose and in the eye corner. In the nose it was almost a hole like a air bubble popped or something.... Maybe it wasn't packed well and just sunk in after I walked away.

    I really brought it up out of curiosity with ppl adding clay wondering if it helped with smoother softer looks and how it dries...
     
  11. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    I never judge mount dryness by the time it has been mounted. Nothing gets finished in my shop until the inner ear is dry. That seems to be the last place to dry. I use alcohol to smooth out apoxie sculpt, water will rehydrate the skin, and cause issues.
     
  12. Jared you my be on to something there. I don't usually put hide paste in the inner nose or aoind the eye over the clay. I was afraid it would squeeze out and be messy.
     
  13. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    I was taught the same way. I actually learned to use hide paste over the clay on here! I cover the eye and all, then, after the eye skin is tucked, wipe off with a damp paper towel and finish with a damp paint brush (not too wet, or you will wash out the paste and make your clay mushy)

    On the nose skin, use your finger to cover the inner skin before you tuck. Really helps with shrinkage.


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  14. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

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    Clay has no glue like qualities, nothing will stick to it as is. Always glue, paste over clay areas, over eyes, ear butts and inside nose.
     
  15. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    On the eyes and nose, a little paste goes along way. If you get squeeze out on the eye, that is what windex or alcohol and q-Tips are for. If it squeezes out in the nose it is easily removed after it has set up slightly, again with a Q-Tip.

    I too was afraid to get the glue everywhere and had the same problem as you. Hide paste and Safety Solvent cure it.
     
  16. Thanks guys I learn so much from here!
     
  17. Interesting Paul and thanks for the tip. My mentor uses no paste over the eye clay areas either but DOES us Apoxy clay AND only water! No alcohol.
    I will have to try your method of putting some hide paste over the eye 'clay' areas as well.
     
  18. czykdbcz

    czykdbcz Artist or just crazy

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    I to have just recently started to to put the paste on the glass of the eyes it seems to get on the eye skin better for tucking. My eyes have ended up tighter to the glass. I use apoxi clay and safety solve to smooth things out. No shiny finish with the clay. Be sure your mount is all of the way dry before applying the apoxi. I wait around 2 weeks. I have rushed it before and had to go back and do it over.
     
  19. KatieC

    KatieC Active Member

    I would definitely let things dry longer than 7 days! As the skin continues to fully dry and shrink, it will cause cracking in the finish work. I'm extra careful and let things 4 weeks, and have not had any problems.
     
  20. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I let it dry 3 to 4 weeks.