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How to complete a cape buffalo mount, finishing the boss area of the horns

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by AKbiggame, Jun 30, 2016.

  1. AKbiggame

    AKbiggame New Member

    I have done a lot of north american game head mounts and several african antelope but I am working on my first cape buffalo mount. I am wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on finishing the area between the horns. Some of this specimen may have had a soft boss and been lost during the skull cleaning preparation prior to my receiving the horns. Do I need to use some product and build up the horns between the two sides, and then paint it later. speaking of paint I could use a few pointers on that too. What are the basic colors to use and what is the best layering scheme for application of paint. Any assistance in this on this project would be appreciated thanks in advance,

    Scott in AK
  2. ice

    ice Active Member

    I've used magic sculpt and a modeling tool and results were satisfactory. Friend of mine just uses bondo. Recreate the cracks, crevices, and lines or layers in the horn, tying into the cracks or lines that are present on the boss. A hard boss will have deep, rough, "blocky" edges and crevices in the boss, so reference material will be very helpful. Paint with mixture of black and brown, but layer any grays or yellows you may see in your reference material, then go over again with thinned brown/black. Get some darker paint in the crevices; keep layering until you're satisfied. Same goes for muskox boss, with brown, gray, and yellow paint. Good luck.

    Dianne in AK

  3. Gurneyjockey

    Gurneyjockey Member

    I don't do too many, but I use black apoxy sculpt and latex molds I've made off others to press in the basic detail and tweek and paint from there
    taxyman likes this.
  4. ljones

    ljones 1994 wasco award winner

    This is how I do them I haven't found a quicker easier way to do this and the results if done right are hard to distinguish from the real horn

    1. Mix enough Fiberglas resin and thicken to the consistency of cake icing with cabosil add some black lacquer paint to color the mix

    2 apply this mixture over the area you need to rebuild

    3 texture the resin with a paint stick by patting it and bringing up peaks like you would if you were puting icing on a cake

    4. After it sets, file down the peaks off the resin with a farriers file to match the surrounding horn
    5. Use reference to color they are no where near just solid black
    taxyman likes this.
  5. AKbiggame

    AKbiggame New Member

    Thanks everyone for the responses, seems there are several different approaches to choose from. I appreciate the feedback very much.
  6. Worldslammer

    Worldslammer New Member

    I know Im a bit late to the party on this topic, but Ive found the best way to replicate the horn is to make a small impression mold from silicone on the surviving boss and then I use bondo or similar to fill in major gaps, then layer colored Apoxie putty over the area and then use the impression mold to texture, and as it hardens I can come back with a tool to add deeper grooves where needed. I use this for all my African work. Once its been color matched its very hard to tell the difference. You can use 2 part silicone or even just the stuff in a tube you get from Home Depot, though 2 part does work a little better.
  7. I see that this is an old post that was resurrected but I’ll add my 2 cents to it anyway.
    Use of epoxy putty is expensive so I like and basically use what ljones has described.

    1. Treat horns with bug preventative
    2. Mount the skull/horns to the form
    3. After attaching form to the mounting stand, I Mix two part foam and pour it down the void of one horn, After it’s kicked I repeat foaming the other horn. As it’s coming out control the overflow with a plastic bag so you can cover the skull cap. Rasp and shape the foam to your liking.
    4. Refer to ljones steps 1-5

    Something to keep in mind when creating the texture of the portion that is being replaced. What are you replacing? Soft boss! The portion missing is missing because it’s the soft tissue that boiled away. It is the transition space from the skin to the horn, it’s not like skin to antler on a deer. Most taxidermist do a really nice job and make it pretty but it’s still wrong.