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Carcass casting

Discussion in 'Molding and Casting' started by jessiecanfield, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. jessiecanfield

    jessiecanfield Member

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    I want to carcass cast a little raccoon I wanna keep the carcass froze I was thinking about pour it and putting in back in the freezer will being in the freezer affect the silicone or plaster
     
  2. 1tahr

    1tahr Member

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    hi im just wondering wether the water in the plaster may expand when frozen and crack the mold ,ive a project similar to yours with a possum body but just cant get time to cast the body in one go.
     

  3. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood New Member

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    Just did a molding class and we did a civet and it turned out great-- contact me for more details.
    Clay
     
  4. stuffemright

    stuffemright New Member

    I recently carcass casted an entire gray fox and won the breakthrough award with it. I'll explain how I did it. I took the carcass and positioned it in the position I wanted. I then froze it solid! I dismembered the carcass in sections. The head, the 4 limbs, and then the main body. I casted each part one at a time while the other parts were kept in the freezer. I made boxes of cardboard big enough to hold the part I was going to cast. I placed the part in the box and filled half way with plaster. Once the plaster set I rubbed mold release wax from Vandykes supply company. And poured more plaster over that and let harden usually half hour or so. By the time it was ready to de-mold the part I casted was soft enough to separate from mold. However the plaster set hard before it thawed so I got and exact replica! I did this for all parts of the animal. I let all my molds dry in front of the fan for a week and waxed the inside of the molds! I used 2 part eurathane foam to pour into molds. Make sure you have the 2 parts of the mold together tightly as the foam will expand and cause distortion. Attached straps and clamps work good. Personal message me for pics and more tips I'm willing to help anyway I can!!
     
  5. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood New Member

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    While this is a way to do it, there are more efficient ways whereby you can eliminate some of the cutting off of the limbs and such. There are many great products available to do this as well. I applaud you for your ingenuity though-- good job. However, after a little while the molds will start to lose detail and eventually the plaster will disintegrate.

    Using the TFB products will allow you to keep a longer shelf life with out any degregation.
     
  6. Been off the site for a while. I did a grey fox (my avatar) for the NJ State Competition back in 2003 - it took 1st Place and Best in Category, Amateur Division. I pretty much did it the exact same way as stuffemright with the exception that I ran a wire from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail and in each leg. I did this to support the body in the position I wanted so it conformed to the tree limb for the mount. I wrapped the limb in plastic film and made a cast in foam. I pinned the feet to it then froze the animal. First time doing this - thoroughly enjoyed it.
     
  7. Silicone can be used for a frozen specimen and if you use tin silicone (condensation cure), it'll cure fine, albeit slower than normal. However, you could accelerate your silicone cast with a tin accelerator to speed up the process. I know this method works for fish bodies.
     
  8. DTS 1046

    DTS 1046 Member

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    I did a small pug nosed pek this way in 1980, froze in position, cast bottom first, refroze and repeated using dams and made a fiberglass body, since it was to be a lost mold and only used once, this worked great. Pat the tummy and it sounded so real. I can still hear Bob Berry across the room shouting "WHO DID THE DOG?" I just threw away that 1st place ribbon a couple years ago. Since the owner felt money was no object, I probably didn't charge enough for that winner. Have a great day