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Advice on mounted deer

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by ranger, Nov 3, 2016.

  1. ranger

    ranger Member

    I have 2 mounted deer that has a spot that is slipping. Right now I can cover it with a little creative combing of the hair around it. It's about the size a little bigger than a half dollar. Also if I pull on hair in other parts of the cape I can easily pull out the hair root is black in color. My process for tanning was salted 24 hr shake off excess. Mix pickle in auto tanner (safety acid) at 1.5ph. 1lb salt per gallon of water, 4 gallons for 1 cape, ran auto tanner for 2 hrs thinned cape to dish towel thickness on my Dakota pro. Returned to auto tanner ph still at 1.5, ran for 2 more hours, moved cape and pickle into a plastic bucket for 48 hrs. Neutralized cape 3 gallons of water 3tbsp. Baking soda for 30 minutes. Rinsed in clear water allowed to hang for an hour than towel dried. Brushed on try bond 1000 let set for 2 hrs than in a plastic bag overnight. Rinsed in cool water towel dried bagged and froze. Hair was solid in auto tanner but now after it's mounted it wants to fall out. Will the hair grab hold once it is dry or should I pull it off the form and replace it. Any advice or insight would be appreciated
  2. Don't pull on the hair it will set once its dry.

  3. ranger

    ranger Member

    That's what what I was thinking. Does anyone see what I might have missed to cause slipping. Usually if there is as bad spot the auto tanner will remove the hair from that spot during the pickle stage.
  4. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    1. Salt longer- 48hrs then rehydration bath
    2. running cape too long at a time. Shouldn't run more than 1 minute or so during the first 24 hrs of pickle, twice an hour. Give hair time to set. Wouldn't ever run more than 5-10 min an hour, maybe 4 times a day. Not familiar with auto tanner recommendations. Just a suggestion. Run mulies that long, and they will nearly be bald!
    3. You're not following the tanning product instructions. Lose plastic bag! Let tan dry overnight, wash, then freeze or mount. Shouldn't need to sweat a wet tan, which is what you have if you followed the instructions.

    Just my two cents. Have a good one!!
  5. ranger

    ranger Member

    This is off trubonds website:
    As seen in the pictures the cape is ready for the tan. Once the tan has been applied you can do a couple of things. Let the cape lay flat for two hours. If your cape is tubed turn it right side out so it’s skin to skin. Once the skin has had a couple hours to absorb the tan you can fold it skin to skin put it in a plastic bag and sweat it in a refrigerator overnight. You can then lightly wash the cape in cold water and mount it or freeze it. Once the skins are tanned in my shop I generally let the lay on the floor overnight covered in plastic for the sake of efficiency. In the morning I measure the capes, tag’em and bag’em and into the freezer they go. The forms are ordered and the skin isn’t washed until the day it’s mounted.
  6. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    My mistake ranger. The directions are different than I remember?
    I would do what they say then. Maybe the drumming thing?
  7. ranger

    ranger Member

    Thanks for the info. I'll keep working at it see if I can figure out were I messed up, I'll salt dry the next batch and see if that works better it won't hurt for sure. Been using trubond for a few years and love the results until these last 2 capes.
  8. I use the auto tanner with the arrowhead crystals. Never had a problem in 1,000 plus capes. Throw them in there raw. No salting either.
  9. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Tazzymoto, do you still sell small wet drums similar to the AT?
    Do you also offer your own brand of tanning product for your tanning drums?
    What do you guys recommend as far as drumming times and rpm's, etc?
  10. I do still make the cape saver wet drum. I use a premium tanning crystal mix . My procedure for tanning is as follows. Flesh hide, rinse in cold water to remove dirt and blood. Then it go's into the tanner for 4-6 hrs. The cape saver turns at around 1 rpm . Remove drain and shave then back in over night, drain and shave a second time. Then add 2 oz of baking soda to the solution along with oil and let it stop foaming before running the cape for 45 min to 1 hr. I have not used anything other than the alum based tanning crystals in it. Though I have cape saver customers who use tru-bond products as well as pro1 with good results. I think the auto tanner spins too fast and tends to twist the cape not allowing good coverage. I would try an aluminum sulphate based pickle it will help set the hair. I have used a pickle of 1 lb salt 1 lb aluminum sulphate and 2 gallons of water followed by the tru-bond 1000 with great results
  11. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    If your going to bag a skin like this, personally I unless the cape hung for a day, then I bag them and freeze them.

    I would ask this when you bagged it. Was the skin pretty (hair side) wet? If so that was the culprit. What happens is all that moisture will loosen the epidermis and cause slippage.

    So when using a rub on tan fold them and most say after fours hours you can mount, freeze etc. I fold them overnight and then hang them for a day making sure the hair side is dry. From there I will bag them and freeze them till I'm ready.
  12. 2x Kotula
  13. Bruce_Rittel

    Bruce_Rittel Consultant Services

    Good advice Frank - as usual! I noticed you also said "Fold" them too - Great advice! Some guys tightly "Roll" their skins or capes to reduce storage space, usually in their Freezers! - which really creates problems for themselves. Rolling ends up with an ice cube in center of the Roll (if frozen) and any excess Water has no place to drain away! Particularly after they have been Oiled or when they are thawed! In Tanning - No Rolling! Folding only!