1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

Elk Form

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by ozzy49938, Dec 24, 2016.

  1. I have an elk form that I just ordered that will be shipped cut. I have worked with cut forms before, and I usually bondo the two parts together. Question is this good enough for the elk or will I need more reinforcement to hold the weight of the antlers. If yes what are your suggestions. Thanks.
  2. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I foam the parts together and run a threaded rod down through the head block and down the neck. I used to use Bondo and no support at all and those elk, some of them heavy record book bulls, still hang on walls 20 plus years later.

    You don't need to drill a hole, except through the head block, either. Just sharpen the end of the rod and chuck it into a drill that will handle at least 1/2" and run that rod down through the foam.

  3. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    If an Elk falls from the wall from a height of 10 feet or more it will land on the antlers just from the weight and gravity if it doesn't hit anything on the way down, your next project is going to fix all the broken tines. The hide with the glue forms a cast, if you will, around the form/neck area. Cant see how that area can ever break. Had many large whitetail/mule deer mounts come in for that very reason, falling off walls. Broken tines and complete main beams broken and ripped out of skull plate and hide along with nose damage. Forms have never been affected. Also had a Kudu fall, same thing, horn broken off at skull with pieced together neck. I use Gorilla Glue and 6 inch sheet rock screws to glue/hold form together.
  4. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    The dried tanned skin glued to the form is much like the raw hide native americans used to hold their bows together. The bow would shatter if it was drawn back very far, however, with the rawhide and glue, you could over draw the bow with no damage to the bow.

    Once the hide is glued to the form and dries, it will hold everything together. I do have some experience with mounts falling off the walls and the muzzles breaking nearly completely off and all that kept it attached was the dried and glued skin. I still had to fix the muzzles and I had no idea what glues or tans were used on them.

    The reason I use the rod is that, I believe it was George, said that the neck can fail and you would be not happy. He said the added insurance is worth the effort and it made me nervous, so now I don't have to be nervous even though I have yet to have any of the ones I Bondo'd with no rod come back.