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Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by wbh2, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. wbh2

    wbh2 New Member

    How many of you guys and gals out there use ear liners and bases for your whitetail a shoulder mounts?
  2. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    Not me. Bondo and clay here.

  3. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I use the earlines. I've yet to see a Bondo ear match the quality and STAMINA of an earliner. I use potter's clay for the ear butts so that I can twist and turn them to my desires.
  4. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    Ear liners and sometimes use the base. The stationary ears and base combo may not work on some antler shapes so being able to make clay butts will help in the long run.
  5. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    After using the plastic butts for years, I have gone back to to clay. When I started out, I did Bondo ears. I moved on to plastic liners and now I use celastic liners.
  6. I have always used earliners for the perfect shape. The ones i use from Reinhart are almost like a rubber feel and work awesome
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Jesse, just as a sidenote: I wouldn't use those "rubbery" liners. It was tried years ago from a small supply house in Texas. They had two fatal flaws. (1) Though they had excellent detailing on the back, they were noticeably thick compared to others and (2) flexible ear liners can and often does lead to broken ears. The liners bend easily but the dried and cured leather certainly won't. Bending the ears, either accidentally or on purpose, couldeasily snap the ear. I like the pink 360 degree ones from Ohio Taxidermy Supply and Headquarters.
  8. .

    Those rubber ear liners have got to be the worst on the market. Thick with thick ear edges. I got a free pair at a taxi show and tossed them in the garbage
  9. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    I used those plastic earliners from Rinehart and they drummed both times.

    Question to George. When you install these earliners you are talking about do you sand and apply the adhesive immediately with no additional steps? Dip in lacquer thinner and put in sawdust (or sand/cob dust)? I am looking for something else to try. Thanks for your insights!

  10. George thanks for the info greatly appreciated. I will be trying that i am always looking to improve my customers work.
  11. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I use epoxy. In fact, I use the Liquid Fast Set from Epo-Grip. The earliners are poly and lacquer thinner is virtually useless on them. They have no release agent on them as they're injection molded. Epoxy, contrary to popular opinion, is the only adhesive that will actually chemically bond with poly. Once I peel the cartilage out of the tanned hide, I wash the cape to remove residual oil from tanning. I spin it dry and then wrap it in a towel until the leather becomes "tacky". On each earliner, I drill a 1/2 inch hole along side the peg at the bottom of the 360 earliners. (This allows air and excess epoxy to escape later on. Then I do the following on one ear at a time:

    Mix 3/4 ounce of Liquid Fast Set (3/8 ounce of "A" and 3/8 ounce of "B").

    Pour half the epoxy down the ear pocket. Pour the remainder on the inner part of the earliner. I knead the ear pocket to spread the epoxy inside. Insure that I get it to the tip and allong the edges especially. On the earliner, I use a popsicle stick and cover the entire interior surface of the liner with a thin coat. Then I quickly insert the liner into the pocket.

    Knead the eposy around over the earliner and taxi the skin to align the hair markers. Push it all towards the tip. when it's there, slowly move all the excess and air bubbles to the butt of the liner. I wipe away excess epoxy pushed through the vent hole I drilled.

    I use a fine bristle "baby brush" and brush the ear to get the hair patterns right and aligned properly. I'm constantly pressing down on the interior of the ear until I feel the epoxy start to heat up. You have about 30 seconds at this point. Make sure the hair is right and all air has been pushed out. When the ear gets hot to the touch, start on the other ear liner.

    After I mount the hide, I use fish carding wire and plastic mesh to card the edges of the ear. Do not use paperclips. Clothespins offer a wider, smoother edge so as not to imprint the ears. I leave it carded for 2 full days and remove before the mesh imprints the ear. This compresses the "edge" skin of the ear into a sharp, flat edge I PERSONALLY prefer.
  12. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I tried the ones with the separate bases once and did not like them. If mounted with ears forward, I use the liners with built in bases made for that position. If ears back, then I build the bases out of clay.
  13. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I used those rubber ear liners and they worked just fine with my method. They are a little thick compared to others though, which for commercial work, is really not a big deal. I do prefer the ones from the Vandyke catalog though.
  14. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Thanks George! I will give that a shot next time.
  15. Liners most of the time. Clay butts most of the time.
  16. jim tucker

    jim tucker Active Member

    The only time I don't do my own butts is if somebody wants a straight, ears forward mount.
  17. 360 liners from Ohio Taxidermy Supply and Potters Clay butts for all of my commercial mounts.
  18. earliners with epo grip.