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Tucking hide and finishing the back of a pedistal mount

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by fowlwheelin, Jan 30, 2017.

  1. fowlwheelin

    fowlwheelin New Member

    Just wondering how some of you finish the back of pedestal mounts, looking for some ideas on how you transition the hair with what ever you use to finish the back. leather, bondo, fake rock, ect are there any tutorials for this. Thanks in advance ! Doug
  2. mopsrdrawer67

    mopsrdrawer67 Member

    If you have enough hide hanging off, it looks very clean continuing the hide.

  3. Mike Powell

    Mike Powell Well-Known Member

    Artificial rock is most common for me, but I've also used leather, back hide of the animal, and even rock look spray paint.
  4. I use pro1 hide paste and sometimes I just cut it flush with the back of the form after it is completely dry. I prefer a rock mix and have also used the fake rock paint in a can. Tons of choices and methods on this.
  5. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I cut the hide flush with the back of the form, cover the back with felt, then trim with decorative rope. I'm thinking about flocking my next one though to see if that is easier than messing with the felt.
  6. Just wondering if you have any cape shrink back from the form?
  7. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    I pin the hide around the back of the form until the hide paste dries then cut it off with a scaple. I then super glue it along the edge and let it finish drying. Never had any movement of hide along the edge.
  8. Thanks for telling me how, that is a really good way to do it. I've never done a pedistal mount, but will definately use that system when i do one. Thanks again for sharing.
  9. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    That cut and no tuck with the rope trick is as old as I am. Personally, I don't do it. I think the rope looks like someone lost a drapery cord. When I get that kind of mount, I take a Sharpie pencil and trace a line around the pedestal area 1/2 inch in from the edge all the way around. Then I take my Dremel with a fine bit and cut a channel along the line leaning the drill tip towards the open area of the pedestal. I mount the deer as usual. I leave about 1 1/2 inches of overlap in the pedestal area. Then I tuck it.

    I scratch the back panel with a Stout Ruffer and paint it with Weldwood Contact Cement. I take a piece of doeskin a bit larger than the back and I sprayglue the contact side. Drape the skin over your fist and push it into the center when the Weldwood is tacky to the touch. Slowly work the hide out from the center so you don't have ripples or bubbles. When you get to the edge, trim it about and inch too large (just outside the form edge). Then tuck it atop the deer hide already tucked into the slot. This gives a smooth finished look. Especially in the armpit areas where the hair was thin, the transition is completely covered. Occasionally, I'll go back and run 3 inch insect pins down atop the hide inside that groove in areas where I suspect pulling might occur.
  10. Thanks for sharing, I like learning different ways to mount stuff.
  11. babowhunter

    babowhunter Man,I love this stuff!!

    Any pics of this George?Thanks
  12. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    That sounds like it would give a very good look, but it would cost a lot more in time and material than my method. I'm curious, how much extra do you charge for your pedestal mounts over normal shoulder mount pricing?
  13. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I'm not sure I agree with "it would cost a lot more in time and material than my method". I used to use that method of cutting the hide underneath, but I always felt that rope-a-dope thing just looked tacky. Many times, the hair wasn't really long enough to "curl over" so I figured how I could be sure it was covering the edge. I usually cover the back of the pedestal before I mount the hide which makes it extra easy. Then I put a piece of plastic over the leather and tuck it as well. That way no glue gets on the doeskin. When I mount it and tuck the hair, I can pull the plastic sheet out after it dries. I charge $100 more for it.
  14. TripleC

    TripleC Member

    George. Once again, a great idea/explanation. Thinking about trying this method on two Pronghorn pedestal mounts I have lined up to do.