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Hide Paste Headaches! Please Help!

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by Bluenose Moose, Apr 29, 2017.

  1. woakley144

    woakley144 Active Member

    Changed to Pro-1 for everything.... Never will I go back to dema-grip or latex caulk.

    Very high quality product... Pro-1
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Yep pro 1 best on the market, you can tint it colors to use , like pink for ears and nose or brown to use in habitats . It is expensive to ship and is why I buy it 5 gal at a time and go to Taxidermy shows they go to to stock up and save on shipping
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019
    AZ~Rich likes this.

  3. qltycapes

    qltycapes Active Member

    I still use dextrine and water, you can usually purchase at any large food ingredients distribution company for approximately $55 for a 50 pound bag. Probably do about 60 deer out of one bag. Yellow and white dextrine have similar results. I think of using higher priced glue but haven't seen the need to.
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    First if all, the cost of glue should never be a consideration. If you aren't adding that into what you're charging, then you're as dumb as your customers.

    Second using cheap caulk and dextrine may have been ideal during the days of paper forms. No one markets paper forms. Those products certainly work SHORT TERM ON FOAM FORMS. Hoping that it lasts the life of the mount is just about as dumb as paining your forms with shellac. If the mount is hung in high/low humidity or high/low temperatures, the long term IS GOING TO BE DRUMMING. This is a perfect example of the difference between a glue and an adhesive. The cheap glues simply hold the hide in contact with the form by mechanically creating a vacuum of sorts. Once it cures, there is no chemical bond between the hide and the foam form. Conversely the adhesives do form a chemical and mechanical bond between the form and the hide so it ADHERES. If you've ever torn down a paper form, you can feel a slight mechanical bond but its dependent on the shellacked adhering to the paper and not to the hide bonding to shellac. Tear down a foam form mount done with dextrine. It peels like an orange. Simply wrap your mount with a wet towel. Now try that with the epoxies or adhesives like Pro-1. If that glue is cured, you're going to rIp chunks of foam out.

    Bottom line: if you concern yourself with a mount only until it clears the shop, use cheap crap. If it's your animal and you want it to look as good 20 years from now as they do when they leave your shop, buy quality ADHESIVES.
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2019
    Robert Baker, Lance.G, drob and 5 others like this.
  5. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    We visited Biltmore in Asheville a few weeks ago. Awesome old moose and elk mounts hanging high in the un-air conditioned dining room. I suspect Jonas used dextrin on them 125 years ago!
    creepers and (deleted member) like this.
  6. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Joey, I also suspect they were (1) originally .mounted on paper forms and (2) considering that those mounts would be 124 years old, they have been "refreshed" several times.
  7. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    You may be correct, but they appear original. Visit Biltmore and give me an assessment!
    Richard C likes this.
  8. creepers

    creepers natural history preparator

    I got mounts over 30 years old no drumming and used yellow dextrin in my hide paste , all on foam mannikins
    qltycapes likes this.
  9. Dave York

    Dave York Well-Known Member

    You can make dextrin out of corn starch. I’ve done it in a pinch. Spread it out on a cookie sheet or any kind of baking pan. Bake it at high heat stirring often until it turns yellowish color.
    I did it because I couldn’t wait for a delivery
  10. creepers

    creepers natural history preparator

    I just make quality adhesive , that works for me long term. ........just saying
  11. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    creepers, one of two things:
    1. Your mounts are in a hermetically sealed display case
    2. You have drumming, you just don't know where it is.

    I know dextrin will NOT adhere skin to earliners. If your skin was dry tanned, and if the form was roughed up sufficiently, PERHAPS the hide dried flat to the form but dextrine worked back in the era of red rosin and papier mache forms not when dealing with the polyfoam. It didn't even work well on the only (and thank God, short-lived) fiberglass forms.
    creepers likes this.
  12. Hasnain

    Hasnain Member

    George need ur advise. White glue + glycerine + ground chalk + dextrine???????
  13. Westcoast

    Westcoast Well-Known Member

    Pro 1 hands down! If cost is an issue adjust for it. That glue will do exactly what you want it to every time.
    Lance.G likes this.
  14. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Leave the glycerine in the bottle. The others sound like a good recipe
  15. creepers

    creepers natural history preparator

    Nope just no drumming , but I will say this pro 1 is a very good glue, but I'm sure many people don't realise that it is a re-labled bucket of roman 555, and guess what the secret ingredient is in roman 555?

    White dextrin!
  16. byrdman

    byrdman Well-Known Member

    construction grade epoxy caulk in tubes