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Ear liner glue

Discussion in 'Lifesize Mammals' started by pir^2h, Jun 15, 2017.

  1. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Just wondering if anyone has tried using silicone or latex caulk as an adhesive on earliners and how it worked for you.
     
  2. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I used the caulk that Research Mannikins sells. In the description of the product they say that it is a superior earliner adhesive. I found it to work about the same as water based hide paste. It worked, however, I got a little drumming down near the ear canal.
     

  3. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I must add that was for deer ears.
     
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Not a really good idea. Some silicons are destructive adhesives. Jaw Juice is an especially destructive when put into contact with polyethylene ear liners. It will actually melt them down. Other silicon glues are self sealing. Though they may cure quickly, if the thickness is extreme in some places, the silicon may take years to cure. I've been at this a few weeks and tried most of the adhesives out there. Many of the newer hide pastes work and if the earliner is properly prefitted, will hold quite well. I don't like them because of the time involved. Liquid Nails and caulk have the same thing though Liquid Nails is a mildly destructive adhesive. I prefer the 5 minute epoxy. Both silicon and epoxy can be messy if you get sloppy with your work, but epoxy is a breeze to clean up. You simply allow it to heat up and then quickly comb it out. With silicon, you're in for an adventure and you're going to need some strong chemicals to clear it out before it sets. IN MY OPINION, the epoxy has the advantage over all the others as that it cures in less than 10 minutes and with just a few minutes of adjusting, aligning and taxiing the skin, your ear work is complete and you don't have to worry about dislodging them or trying to taxi the skin as the mount dries.
     
  5. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Appreciate your detailed answer George. Seriously I had my doubts about silicone because it is one of the messiest things you can get yourself into. But you never know unless you ask!
     
  6. 5 minute, 2 part Epoxy from Home Depot works great!
     
  7. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    The caulk I used had no silicone in it. It was acrylic latex caulk. As was said there is better stuff to use out there.
     
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Tanglewood, I suspect drumming will continue to be an issue. I keep hearing success stories about caulk and even hide paste, HOWEVER, chemistry can't be fooled. The poly earliner is molded from a material that is self-lubricating. Poly is used as bearings and washers in many applications because of this quality. Even when manufactured, no mold release is necessary during the injection molding process because of that. Once cured, it doesn't even stick to itself.
    Caulk and hide paste work because of physics, not chemistry. When fitted properly, the glue's surface tension coupled wit the vacuum created by pressing the skin to the liner while removing any air bubbles makes the skin stay in place. (Take 2 panes of glass, put one drop of water on one pane, and then lay the other on it. It is physically impossible to lft them apart due to the surface tension. Same principle with earliners.) As long as the ear is tended to keep the skin expanded and the paste cured, the skin will stay. Still, changes in the environment (humidity, dry heat) can effect the skin to where the bond to the poly is broken. Varying degrees of drumming WILL occur.
    Conversely, epoxies are uneffected by the self-lubricating qualities of poly. Epoxies chemically bond with the poly making that adhesion permanent. At the same time it permeates to the skin and bonds it permanently as well.
     
  9. JerseyJays

    JerseyJays Well-Known Member

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    Careful what you choose.. it may work well, but it may also cause yellowing if the white ear hair over time. I used "ear adhesive" 10 years ago and my showroom mounts from then have tainted yellow ear hairs now.. product was made by "wesco"

    Now I use pro1.. no issues yet.



    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
     
  10. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Ya, that's why I only used on a couple of ears. I'm the kind of person who tries something out first to form an opinion and then ask for other's opinions. The opinion I formed all those years ago was that it didn't work better than my hide paste and that there are better products than my hide paste for ears. I recently checked all the ears on my mounts from over the years and discovered that all my Bondo ears had some form of drumming and about a quarter of my hide paste ones had some form of drumming. The epoxied ones had one that drummed slightly, however, I seem to remember that the epoxy dried before I discovered an air bubble so I suspect it was that one that had a little drumming.
     
  11. Alpine Taxidermy

    Alpine Taxidermy New Member

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    Yer great topic and good reading so far, so let's discuss the "bonds method" I read up the page some degree of drumming over the years and yes I agree. So my question is what is the best method when ear liners are not used, be interested to hear the opinions.
     
  12. BrianHendricks

    BrianHendricks Member

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    The adhesive is important, but IMO more importantly is the fit with earliners. You need to allow room for the inevitable shrinkage. I use the Bondo method on most big game and liners with the cartilage intact on most smaller game. With either method there is one constant. I blow dry the ear first. The outside helps to see and adjust hair patterns as well as removing excess moisture. The inside, which includes the cartilage insures a strong bond and more importantly it preshrinks the skin. To guess at a number, I would say about 80 percent dry is the minimum. So with a proper fit and most of the moisture gone before you apply the adhesive,it eliminates any serious shrinkage issues. That's what I do. Not perfect,but it works for me.
     
  13. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Most of you have no idea about lead, but sheet lead was popular years back. Everyone left cartilage in and sheet lead could be cut with shears and extruded to paper thinness on the shop with a hammer and vise anvil. When lead prices went up, tin from cans was used. The current problems sprang up with the introduction of plastic. There was very little that would hold the skin in place (to a great degree, that issue persists). We were told to punch holes in the liners and remove the cartilage. This allowed the skin to bond to its opposing side but it left craters on the exterior surface as the glue cured.
    I've often wondered why some entrepreneur didn't market liners made of rat wire it's then enough to avoid cratering.We used to border the edges with Scotch tape to keep the wire shards from puncturing the skin. I'd likely use that method had I not met Steve Steinbring and he started marketing his Clear Paste.

    For you guys experiencing yellow hair, two things: 1. Beware the cheaper epoxies. They aren't refined and have impurities that are photo sensitive and turn yellow when curing, and 2. Avoid "globbing". The thicker the epoxy, the hotter the chemical reaction. It will literally scorch the skin to a degree to where osmosis will bring that yellow effect down the hair shaft.
     
  14. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I got in a deer head to redo on a new form with a new cape. The old form was paper and the earliners were made of lead. I still have that form on my wall. It was done quite well.
     
  15. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Your last post gave me a flashback to a half century ago George. Remember when toothpaste, Ben Gay and other ointments came in metal tubes? When I was about twelve years old I was doing a squirrel and I used the metal from a tube of Colgate toothpaste to make earliners out of! I think I did it on a fox or two also. How times and the industry has changed.
     
  16. BrianHendricks

    BrianHendricks Member

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    Likewise with the lead toothpaste tubes. OMG . Lead ? And yet we're still alive !
     
  17. Jerry Huffaker

    Jerry Huffaker Well-Known Member

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    Brian,
    I remember as a kid in the 60's the siding on our house was falling apart and left piles of dust on the ground. As we raked it up and put it in the trash cans it would fog up and make us cough and sneeze.
    It was ASBESTOS SIDING, HAHAHAHAHA!

    I'll give you one more that's totally unrelated to ear glue for fun, A friend of my dads was an exterminator for years and they used DDT forever. Well the way he tested whether his mixture was correct or not was by TASTING IT!! TRUE STORY He lived to be 90yrs of age.
     
  18. tomdes

    tomdes Me my dear and Fall BAZZ!!!

    Ear Magic is the best stuff out there in my opinion, I got into the habit of after I have the skin prepped for mounting, I glue in the ears with EM, groom and let in harden really well, then bag it and put it back into the freezer. When I go to mount it, it's one less step I need to do and the ears come out great..
     
  19. rogerswildlife

    rogerswildlife Rogers Wildlife Taxidermy Tommy Rogers

    Pro one !!
    Tommy ..
     
  20. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Tom, the question was about ear liners. If you don't have or don't want to use them, certainly Ear Magic is the next best thing. The silk fibers in the epoxy can really be tough to beat. Clear Paste and Liquid Fast Set are all same base products and cure within 5 minutes.

    As good as Pro One is and as much as I swear by it, it still won't adhere to a plastic earliner.