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Silver metallic and air brush

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by rough water, Jul 26, 2017.

  1. rough water

    rough water Member

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    What brush and needle size are you using to spray metallics? I have a krome and put the biggest needle that it came with in and it plugs. Tried adding retarded and it didnt help. Adj air pressure, notta. Should i strain the metallic ? I can run all other paints without any issues. Its water based if that makes a difference?
     
  2. Jimmy Lawrence

    Jimmy Lawrence Well-Known Member

    Re: Silver metalic and air brush

    I use a paasche vl, and also a badger 155 or something like that for heavy pigment paints. Pearls, Irridescents, Shimmers etc. I also use that for broad coverage and larger fish. I've also used the cheap $25 harbor Freight Airbrushes for that as well.
     

  3. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    Re: Silver metalic and air brush

    I would second Jimmy and add that the metal flakes in metalic and pearl paints can prematurlely wear out a good air brush, so spray them with a cheap, Harbor Freight model!

    ~S
     
  4. rough water

    rough water Member

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    Re: Silver metalic and air brush

    thanks!
     
  5. rough water

    rough water Member

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    Re: Silver metalic and air brush

    Will a .5 tip work with ,metallics without straining or do I need a larger tip like a .7 or a 1.0?
     
  6. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    You may want to run the paint through a strainer, has worked for me in the past.
     
  7. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    You need another air brush with a wider opening. Straining paint ain't gonna resolve it. No, it's not going to prematurely wear your stainless steel air brush out quicker by trying to either (where do some of you people come up with this stuff?? lol) No it doesn't matter if it's lacquer based or water based or pizza based! You're basically trying to shove an object thru a hole that is simply too small. Simple as that. Either add a cheap wide open air brush to your arsenal or try to find metallics/powders with smaller flakes...
     
  8. rough water

    rough water Member

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    how wide do I need .5, .7, 1.0??
     
  9. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    Hey Art, I was just talking from my experience from years ago. I used the same (Badger) airbrush for everything and after a while it would wear out. The tip and needle both showed erosion. Changing them restored performance. It was my Badger rep that told me about the metallics, perhaps it was just to sell another gun. In any case, my needles and tips lasted longer with color and no metallic! Perhaps back then they didn't use stainless steel,* I have no way of knowing. I was just advising caution from my experience.

    *I just recalled that the erosion I could see was that the chrome or nickel plating was worn off and brass was showing, so they were NOT made of stainless!!!

    ~S
     
  10. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Stainless, Chrome plated carbon steel - it doesn't matter. They're all plenty beefy enough to withstand a few tight metal flakes running through it. At only 35-50psi there's no way it's going to damage your air brush. It can't push thru the flakes so all it does is clog your airbrush. I still use my original 20+ year old Pasche air brush/needles and I have probably pushed more powders thru it than most people and it still works fine. I think your Badger rep fed you a line of crap but that of course is just my opinion! :)
     
  11. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    This was 30 + years ago, and as I said, it showed brass underneath which is MUCH softer than either stainless OR carbon steel!

    Sorry Marty, I'm sure you're correct on the salesman aspect, but the airbrush parts WERE wearing out! After doing about 4 or 5 fish it would start spitting horribly and spraying off center. I know, you're thinking, "He didn't clean it right". I cleaned it meticulously every time I used it. That is how I could keep track of the wear. I'm sure you have gotten 20 years out of your Paasche, but I had to keep changing needle and tips! My needles were so soft that the tips would bend if I wasn't super careful when I cleaned them. Stainless wouldn't do that. Facts are facts, and that changed after I stopped using my detail brush for metallics!

    When I quit doing taxidermy, there was no internet to ask for help or advice, no 'experts' to reach out to, hardly anything except a few local guys that may or may not know what you are talking about. Now the world is awash with opinions, right or wrong, and videos to teach stuff I had to work out on my own! It's a wonderful world.

    ~S
     
  12. Timjo

    Timjo Active Member

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    I've learned mostly from trial and error old school as well and you have to take talk on the internet as mostly opinions. As far as what Marty says, I have to agree, I've run tons of mica through my brushes and have never noticed any wear. I'm a Paasche Guy so maybe thats a better brush, my VL has a brass tip and the newer ones have stainless, no difference in wear as far as I can tell. You need to always clean and take care of your brushes for optimum performance.

    My advice for spraying thicker water acrylic and metallics is to try a Paacshe bottle feed VL3 (.7mm tip) or the Millenium with the .73 tip - which is a great brush.
     
  13. Jimmy Lawrence

    Jimmy Lawrence Well-Known Member

    Good advice tim. Maybe they'll listen to you if they didn't from me the first time.
     
  14. Timjo

    Timjo Active Member

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    USA
    10-4
     
  15. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    Well, I 'spose all I had was a crap airbrush then! All I know is that my days of spraying metallics are behind me. If I do a piece these days, I approach it like a work of art and hand brush just about everything. I'm not knocking anybody!!! I'm just not doing commercial work anymore, so I don't care if I take a year or more to finish something to get it "just right!" I do like the 'feel' of working powders with my fingers, brushes or whatever. I have a fine art background, and do watercolors which helps work with transparent layering. If I do spray, it tends to be more of a broad coverage thing, I won't spray spots or details anymore.

    But this is just my thing! It's what I like to do, and I'm not in competition with anyone, for anything. Everyone else can and should do whatever works for them. All I was doing was trying to pass on some information that helped me once.

    ~S
     
  16. rough water

    rough water Member

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    My advice for spraying thicker water acrylic and metallics is to try a Paacshe bottle feed VL3 (.7mm tip) or the Millenium with the .73 tip - which is a great brush.

    Thanks! that was what I was looking for. I didnt know what size needle to order with the airbrush.
     
  17. Pescado

    Pescado Biggest in 2011

    You can order a heavy conversion kit for a sotar and install on a renegade. I have one on a rage and a velocity. Will spray anything. You just need to snip the little knob off back of needle.

    Can get kit for about $18 on webairbrushes.com
    Use pescado123 coupon code for discount.
     
  18. rough water

    rough water Member

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    Thanks! that sounds a lot better than buying another brush
     
  19. I just thin it...is that too simple?
     
  20. Pescado

    Pescado Biggest in 2011

    Mark thinning does nothi g to reduce the particlate in metallics, pearls and irradescents.