Broken skull plate. any ideas?

i think in van dykes they make those articicial metal plates that you can use!
i think you have to drill a hole on the horns though!

 

Nina,
i am no pro at this, but i had a caribou horn i had to make detachable. when i see your set of horns what i think of is 2 things. mount them like detachable horns would be, but don't detach them (if that makes sense). just epoxy the square peg in solid rather than in a tube that you would remove. the other one may be to use a piece of metal on the inside of the skull plate and screw some screws up into the base of the horn. but if it were me i think i would go with the first idea. good luck and let us know what you come up with.
bob

 

here is a bad picture of what i was thinking.

 

I just set them the same a whole plate, but instead of 3 screws I use 3 on each side. It can be tricky to keep them lined up though. I'll be watching this post for tips myself

 

I would screw both halves to a thin block of wood to get the antlers set back at the proper angles and then use bondo to fill the bulk and epoxy sculpt to build back the entire skull plate going over and under everything so that the thin pieces of bone are encased in something that is going to take the abuse. I think Van Dykes also sells an artificial skull plate to be used with sheds but it leaves you with finding a solid way of attaching just the cut off beams. Good luck, Mark

 

I would screw both halves to a thin block of wood to get the antlers set back at the proper angles and then use bondo to fill the bulk and epoxy sculpt to build back the entire skull plate going over and under everything so that the thin pieces of bone are encased in something that is going to take the abuse. I think Van Dykes also sells an artificial skull plate to be used with sheds but it leaves you with finding a solid way of attaching just the cut off beams. Good luck, Mark

 

mark11...your suggestion is the best and most economical...I have done that exact same thing many times. An expensive antler removal kit also takes more time to install than what you suggested on repairing them with a wood block and bondo.

 

That last idea sounds good Nina but I would take it a step futher and put a layer of fiberglass mat over the top to add strength .

 

Apoxy sculpt for sure, no oder, no sagging, non toxic, you can tape a stick in between the rack to set the spread, screw a small block of wood on the underside and put apoxy sculpt all the way around it, you can form it almost to a finished skull cap. Allot faster then glass that drips all over the place. Apoxy sculpt is strong, very strong, no need for glass or mat.

 

To further give strength do use bondo, resin, and chop but before you mix it up drill tiny hole in the bottom of each half then take several 3/4 inch drywall screws and screw them into the hole from the bottom until they are super tight. Put at least three or four on each side. Then apply the bondo mix and push it into and around these screws. When it sets and cools down you will have a very solid plate. Before you add the mixture you may want to mark the top of the skull where your attaching hole are to be drilled so you don't hit one of the support screws hidden in the bond. After it all cools you can grind off what you don't need. I have done this many time with 100% success!

good luck,

Boxie

 

i have been doing what 4 million fps says he does with 100 percent success, i get 5 or 6 a year that are split and i drill the holes opposing each other and wire them together and then bondo the skull plate on both sides, then i predrill my holes for mounting to the form and go from there, no problems with any of the ones i have done this way, if fact i think its stronger than the original.Russ

 

4000, glass and mat is cool, I have used that in the past, but in her case, it's over kill. Look at her rack, it's a little 7 point. APOXY SCULPT is allot better then epoxy putty, there is a difference. And it doesn't get brittle, "in a few years". It's so easy for her to use, and I bet she has Apoxy Sculpt or All Game on hand.

 

I mounted a mule deer today with exactly the same problem. I put the antlers in the vice and used three small rectangular brackets and bolted and screwed the pieces together. Then I applied layers of Gorilla Glue with sand stirred in. The aggregate of the sand strengthens the bond and makes it foam up. I also added some heavy gage wire across the bottom and glued again. After it was dry, overnight, I added a layer of Rock Hard putty and let it harden overnight. When it was paper mached in place on the form during the mounting process, it wasn't going anywhere. I was so hard, it was difficult to drill through it. Good luck with your project!

 

This is exacly what I do as well. Drill 2 or 3 holes about a 1/2 inch from the edge of the split on each side. You can hold them togeather and use a sharpie pen and make your marks. Drill with a 1/8" bit, use wire and sort of connect the holes together using a pliers to twist on the underside. By using about 2 or 3 holes n each side this skull will be virtually pretty strong, However I do as 4000fps and use a fiberglass resin and mix some fiberglass strands in to thicken to a semi paste. Use a brush or rubber gloves and coat entire skull cap (minus the burrs) with about a 1/4 inch thickness. (automotive fiberglass resin) or a boat patching resin... Should harden to rock solid in a bit. Drill your holes and attach to the form as usual.
* To take it to another level, for detachable, Simply drill with a small bit first and increase in size to about a 3/8 inch bit up through the underside of the skull cap and into the base and up the antler. if your confused let me know and I can explain in more detail. Anyway once drilled, about 4" or so up into the main beam clean out the dust etc. Grab a peice of square "key stock" and test fit. should be loose and sloppy. Cut to square key stock to desired length and grind edges so there are no burs or sharp edges. Coat both key stocks with vasoline or a releasing agent. (I use vaseline) then mix your fiberglass resin with little Chopp, Should be runny. turn antlers over, pour into hole and place key in the hole. Once hardened use pliers and pull out "key" Now you can cut off the antlers at the base as close to the bur as possible with a sawsal or something similar. mount skull cap to form and mount animal. Once you go to sewing the short Y put stuck in the skull cap side, and grab corresponding antler and line up the SQUARE hole. Will be a perfect fit. If you want to take onand off then reapply the vaseline and it will be easier.
note>>> this is my method for moose, caribou and huge mule deer that the owner might have a problem getting through a door. or one than I am shipping to save on the size of the box. In your case with the blacktail (realatively small) you probably wont need to go the detachable route. Hope I explained it clearly enough in typing words.

just my .02 jesse

 

I would do what 4000fps said drill holes on either side and wire the skull back together and rebuild with bondo,apoxie,whatever.....

 

I would also do what 4000fps does, I do at least 20-30 of those a year, It only takes 10 min and they are solid as a rock. Good Luck

Darren

 

I did one the other day, I took mesh chicken wire, cut to fit in between the burs, poured bondo on it, and held it till it hardened. This was a 160 plus set of antlers. It held just fine.

 

Here are a couple of pictures to look at. Hope they help.

 

I use the No catalog's antler plate mold for shed's and broken plates.Using bondo with a little fiberglass chop for added strength.Cheap and fast.800-777-7916 is there no,page 33.Geno