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Preventing the gap between the antler burr and hide

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by traceyinpa, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. traceyinpa

    traceyinpa New Member

    Any advice on how to prevent the gap between antler and hide?
    I use sinew cape thread to stitch the hide together behind the burr, tying as tightly as I can and it looks great until a couple of days later when the skin shrinks and a small gap appears.
  2. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    i put lock tight around the base and i start my sewing from just about the front of the antler. this helps keep the hide tight till it dries.
    traceyinpa likes this.

  3. Cory

    Cory Keep an eye on quality!

    In a lot of instances when this happens, the antler set is off. If the antlers get too high, the hide will want to shrink down and then pulls away from the burr. Study the height of the antler rosette in a line from the corner of the nose thru the front corner of the eye and headed past the antler burr. This will help in a lot of these cases. whitetail 4.jpg
  4. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    Yep, what Cory suggested is one of the biggest issues people have. Hide prep is also a culprit, the thickness or the tan/preservative method or a combination there of. A thin hide shrinks less.
    Jmartins, traceyinpa and Tom Maul like this.
  5. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

    On long hair capes it isnt so apparent but short haired ones can be a bear. As Cory said the antler set is the biggest culprit. Too far back and/or too high and you will be in a pickle when it dries. I have painted the bone under the pedicels dark brown before mounting to disguise the small gap that may occur. You can sew the holes a little further in to make it good and tight as well. What I mean by that is run your stitch in and out of the skin around the hole and cinch it down mega tight. Helps to double the thread for strength. Sufficient paste underneath will help, as will pushing them up tight to the peds daily as it dries. Once I had to take a scrap and cut a strip that I glued in place when the gap appeared. Not something you want to do as a habit but it can be a fix.
    traceyinpa likes this.
  6. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    I tack the skin down to the bone by driving in four small nails around the antler bur and clip them off beneath the hair.
    traceyinpa likes this.
  7. Mike Powell

    Mike Powell Well-Known Member

    What has been said about the antler set is often a cause for the shrinkage you are experiencing, as is not thinning that area of the cape enough. The general rule about the antler set line is just that, a “general” rule and is not always accurate. The actual line, or tilt of the antlers varies in some deer. I always measure the distance from the tip of the nose to the burr, and from the tip of each main beam to a point on top of the deer’s nose. That ensures I always get the precise tilt, and height of the individual deer’s antlers. That being said, I picked up on a technique (I believe this was from George Roof) which has helped me with regard to preventing that shrinkage. I do not put hide paste around the burr, but before sewing up the hide around the burrs I add a roll of apoxie sculpt around each burr leaving a 1/4 to 1/3 inch gap between the burr and the top of the apoxie sculpt roll. I then sew up the hide around the burr as tight against the bone under the burr as I can, tucking the hide in between the burr and the roll of apoxie sculpt. Once it is sewn, I then push the apoxie sculpt up tight against the burr. The apoxie Sculpt hardens and adheres to the hide. It also creates a block that the hide cannot pull past even if it tries to shrink. Since using this technique I have had very little problem with the hide separating from the antler burr. This technique is not prevent shrinkage problems from an incorrect antler set or poor thinning procedure, but it will ensure the skin won’t pull away from the burr -if there is another issue, when shrinking, it will just pull away in another area (like the eyes).
  8. HAPP

    HAPP Active Member

    I sew the hide like a coin purse draw string. (in and out) About 3/8 to 1/2 inch down from the edge, place skin around the burr, then add a stitch to the ends and draw tight. By having the thread down 3/8 to 1/2 inch you pull up towards the burr and the hide paste does the job. And I agree with the proper setting of the antlers. Be sure to thin hide properly.
    traceyinpa likes this.
  9. tomdes

    tomdes Me my dear and Fall BAZZ!!!

    On the outside part of the burr where it drops off the side of the head, I've always mixed up maybe a walnut size ball of magic sculpt and feathered it around the burr leaving about a 1/4" slot. I only do it on the side of the head and around the back a little. I feather it down to the ear muscle. When I mount the deer and have sewn up the burrs, I will work the epoxy that's around the burr and push it up so the skin is tight to the under side of the burr, this hardly takes any effort. Once that epoxy has set, that skin will never move. I've never had an issue since doing it this way. This process has been posted here a few times, or maybe many...
    traceyinpa likes this.
  10. Museum Man

    Museum Man Well-Known Member

    i also put a small roll of apoxie sculpt around each burr and then sew up. removes the problem for me.
    George, birddog1964 and traceyinpa like this.
  11. zap a gap!!! works all the time every time!
  12. 357gene

    357gene New Member

    gorilla glue, problem solved
  13. Magic Sculpt and keep working (pressing) the hide to the antler.
  14. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I suppose the antlers set COULD be an issue, but since the day I started, I've taken meticulous measurements on my antlers. I measured from the nose to the burr, to the back of the skull, to the tip of the brow tines, to the tips of the main beams. I'm gonna be one tough hombre to convince my antler sets are off and still, I sometimes have some shrinkage. My take is a bit different. I don't believe the skin is pulling back from the burr as I believe that the facial hide hasn't been glued sufficiently and it allows that skin to pull down on the burr area leaving a gap. Like museum man, I eliminated most of those issues by taking a small roll of Apoxie sculpt and building a dam under the burr.

    I hear this "thin the hide" comment, but perhaps you've forgotten just how thick the hide is under that burr in its "live" state. Shaving that skin obviously makes the hole larger than the diameter of the beam under the burr, so you MUST compensate by putting SOMETHING under there to replace the skin and cartilage you shave off.
    Shnne likes this.
  15. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    George, if you don't pay attention to all of the suggested potential reasons and just put some apoxie sculpt around the bur, will it stop the gap? I'm guessing not. I have not used a roll of apoxie sculpt, yet. You did hit on something that many fail to do and that is replace the tissue that they remove from both the skull plate and the cape. I myself rebuild that tissue and use pro 1 around the burs.
  16. I do a little of all this stuff I guess. I am particular about the eye to antler burr measurement and I make sure there is a fair amount of hide paste on the burr. I also tack the skin to the bone with some brads witch I remove after the paste is set. This is also an area I watch closely as the mount dries. I dont have problems often doing this but you will still have one now and again
  17. Sigi

    Sigi New Member

    Plenty of hide paste, a couple of tight knots and t pins works for me