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Sewing Ridgelines

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Dr.D., Jun 26, 2018.

  1. Dr.D.

    Dr.D. New Member

    I keep struggling with ridgelines where I sew my deer head capes. I must be doing something wrong. They're good and tight, but I get these darn ridges. Advice?
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    6,082
    1,847
    MN
    Hammer
     
    Tanglewood Taxidermy likes this.

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  4. In my opinion it depends on your sewing pattern. What stitching method you are using. I use over under. Yes a hammer works well also.
     
    Tanglewood Taxidermy likes this.
  5. You can cut out a shallow trench and fill with clay. Push your seam into that.
     
  6. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    I apply plastic mesh over my sew lines and pin heavily on each side of the sewn area. They are flat when the mount is dry.
     
    dale65 and Jon S like this.
  7. GWebb

    GWebb Well-Known Member

    I use the over/under stitch, some may call it the whip stitch. After I get everything sewn up and in its proper position I take and comb the hair apart to expose the seam. I then take push the stitches down flat. When you pull your thread tight you will more or less almost always make a pucker in between stitches, or at least in my experience. Many times the edge of the hide will be puckered up. By me pushing the seam down with my modeling tool the seems doesn't end up puckering. And as far as stitches go, I think the baseball stitch puckers up much worse than the over-under or whip stitch.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2018
    Bucknut likes this.
  8. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    Make sure you have the hide shaved very thin along the seam.
     
    Bucknut likes this.
  9. 11th hour

    11th hour Member

    334
    7
    But not too thin. You'll pull stiches if your not careful. I put 3 or 4 stitches in then relax them a bit and work flat after drawing them tight with my fingers. After all is stitched up and positioned I use the rounded end of a ball peen hammer get it to lay flat. I'll smack it and groom as needed over the next couple of days. Also after it's stitched up I roll the cape up and apply a good amount of pro 1 under the stitched area.
     
  10. twinrivers

    twinrivers Active Member

    Also matters how far your stitches are apart and how close your stitches are to the edge of the seam. Additionally I used to split my capes all the way. Now I make my incision as small as possible. A short Y; there's several techniques. Just enough to get the skull out. Less visible seam and minimal sewing time. Have used a hammer as well in the past.
     
    woakley144 likes this.
  11. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I sew a full incision with the skin out and hair in while it is on the table to a shortish "T". Some use a "Y". Then I can make sure there is no hair in the seam. Stitches no further further apart than 1/16th to 1/8th. I put plenty of paste on the form were the seam will be and slide the skin on. I also add paste under the short "T" as I stitch. I press the seam into the paste several time a day until dry.
     
  12. I do all 3 ways , cut small seam in form put in critter clay stitch and hammer with a post mallet , they have beebee in the head . that makes a dead blow works like a dream . and I also use a needle stitch plastic strip down the seam . I use plastic with the holes in it to help drying and it is cheep reusable . get it at wally world . then back brush when dry looks great . Also you can cut this stuff into shapes and use it on ears the blood viens on face and all kinds of things ,