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What Is The Best Hide Paste For Dry Preserved Deer Capes?

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by fish stuffer, Feb 28, 2019.

  1. fish stuffer

    fish stuffer Active Member

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    Also, is pro 1 an epoxie based glue. Do they make a paste for dry p. Thanks
     
  2. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Pro 1 is water based.
     

  3. rogerswildlife

    rogerswildlife Rogers Wildlife Taxidermy Tommy Rogers

    Pro one will not work for DP hides . You can use Roman 555 or 30.06 caulk works good . The powdered McKenzie paste you mix yourself works also . Probably some more out there these are just some I know of .
    Tommy
     
  4. I know several that use Pro 1 with dry preserved with great results.
     
  5. Museum Man

    Museum Man Well-Known Member

    I personally don't think any hide paste will truly stick a dp skin. think about it, you put a powder on your hand. there is now a barrier between the skin and the paste. you can then have some detail adjustment you can make from the outside but you would just be forming the paste into the shape you want. the powder is still between the paste and the skin. I have personally torn apart some dp'd mounts that had paste on them and the paste did not stick at all on the skin, only the form. if there is a paste that will grab the dry powder and somehow hold it I have not heard of it. good luck though
     
    rogerswildlife likes this.
  6. Two part expoy adhesives are the only ones that really work. And the only one that requires little effort. But the stuff is messy, stickey as hell, harder to clean up.

    Roman 555 and pro 1 both or affected by borax. (It makes it gum up in clumpie). Both can be used it just causes a slight annoying.
    Without really good form prep, carding of some type, both only halfass work. Still it can be done just, takes a lot more attention and effort.
    As museum man said most will drum.
     
    George likes this.
  7. Funny you said that. I cut one apart today and the glue was only stuck too the form.
     
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Glenn is absolutely correct. Even then, you need to degrease your hide completely before trying to mount it. Then you should spray it down with Stop Rot (which seems to reduce shrinkage on DP hides). When you begin, mix enough epoxy in a shallow pan to cover 100% of the scratched or sanded form. (If you use a bucket, the epoxy will cure in the bucket before you get it on the form. The density drastically decreases cure times, so mixing it on a mortar board or flat pan is best.) Do NOT miss any spot on the form. To do so means you're going to have a drum spot that will continue to shrink and can pull the glued surfaces free. No water based or contact based paste is going to hold the pressures created by a drying DP hide.
     
    rogerswildlife likes this.
  9. Nick Poe

    Nick Poe New Member

    Then why do so many advice against it? I have a bunch of extra pro 1 and don’t want to just let it sit because I’m switching to DP.