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Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by drwalleye, Mar 5, 2019.
Lol I use bondo molds all day long and cast with it
Silicone mouth plugs, wax the mold and I’ll split the top of the head and make the cast. Very seldom a problem and if I do it’s cause I didn’t wax a spot.
Sorry, mental fart on my part with my last post #20. Was thinking we were talking about molding a replica, not just the head - doh!
What Frank said! LOL.
Since I rarely mold closed mouth I like to use alginate for my mold then bondo/resin cast. Because I can do this all in one pour with the alginate by grinding out all the undercuts in the open mouth including teeth. Then the alginate's "give" allows me to wiggle the fish head out and then cast. You need to back the alginate once set up with plaster to give things structure. Otherwise when you flip things over and try to pull out your head you will most assuredly rip the alginate. Just another way to do it. But, I will admit it takes practice to use this method. Start out trying it with a very small head and you'll probably still screw things up your first time. Frank's way sounds "safer" in that you probably won't have to redo it. Bondo/resin is not going to tear when you pull that head so you don't have to be as careful.
The original reason I asked this question on what you used as a mold is because of the speed you were doing it. I have done a bit of casting and always used two part silicone but it usually takes over night for it to set up.
I have always found alginate had to work with because of it's delicate nature.
Thanks for your response.
Switch to tin silicone and use a cyalist , it’ll set up in an hour or less
You can always mix your silicone and let it set for an hour before pouring. GI 1100 or 1220 takes about 3-4 hours to set up. You can also pour it in the freezer but it can take a few weeks to set. Or use the catalyst (UFC).
Alginate can be challenging to work with - especially on large heads because of the quick set-up time. For the experienced this can be an advantage though. I always order the "slow set" alginate. And, when I go to mix it with water I use a pitcher of ice cold water with ice in it (with lid and tight pouring spout so no ice cubes fall into the alginate). The ice cold water will slow the set up time a bit. Instead of starting to set up in a minute or two, it'll extend that time to maybe 2-3 minutes. Just for future reference if you ever have to use alginate and want to slow things down. However, if you're fighting the product it just makes sense to switch to one of the other recommended products instead.
I think one of the biggest problems with alginate is folks mix it too thick, was one of my first learning experiences with this,
other than that I love it for a one time deal,
or I use GI1100 with ultra fast catalist
I have purchase several fish heads from Bill Leach, they look great and increase the speed of mounting walleyes and pike. They have a open mouth I have purchased them with teeth in. I put a small amount of 2part foam in the top of the head first then attach a 3 inch sheetrock screw with bond into the foam, after that has set. I drill out a hole in the fish body, Mix a thinned down amount bondo and resin. pour the mix into the drilled hole then slide the screw into the bondo to set. I will do a few test fitting to insure all fitts to my liking. Sometimes a heat gun is used to spend open the gills. Then using magic smooth over the joint to blend in scale pattern. Works great Thanks to bill leach for showing this.
I guess great minds think alike - ha! Bill's screw method is similar to my dowel usage method in post #7. Both give more than just a surface to surface attachment. Mostly needed on heavier heads of bigger fish.