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Discussion in 'Beginners' started by CK Taxidermy, Mar 13, 2019.
I remember when I first started I ordered sodium bicarbonate from the suppliers only to learn it was baking soda,alot of what suppliers sell is stuff that you can get locally, they change the name to make money,like the shampoo Ozark woods sells.krow soap.
The problem with krotann is people refuse to follow the instructions
I'm not sure about that one. I do know, as we've bled a lot over this issue for a couple decades now, that Carolina Fur ships wet tanned hides to me unrefrigerated/unfrozen and I've never had a single one of them slip. MY TAKE on this issue is the one that Rick Carter pointed out in 2008. A shop taxidermy tan and a professional tan are two different animals. The first wet tans I ever had done came out of Seminole Fur Dressing who developed the process. The would ship on Monday and warn you to either freeze it or use it. Then the process became a bit more refined and Carolina uses the same process on dry and wet tans except for the type oil used and tumbling wet tans. The paint on tans were once called "slip tans" because if you diddled around, you were going to have slippage. Better products, better results, still not failsafe, however.
Which ones? The ones that say use baking soda or the one that says double the amount of bicarbonate of soda?
The ones who use double the amount baking soda and the ones who think theres a difference between baking soda and sodium bicarb.
Now for the rest of the story....You can add 10x the amount of baking soda/sodium bicarbonate that the instructions call for. As long as you don't let it soak in the solution any longer that it calls for and if you rinse the hide well, it isn't going to cause slippage.
Your problem lies elsewhere.