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Help Fixing Tail Junction

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Jason Rader, Mar 16, 2019.

  1. This is my very first attempt at assembling/painting a repro. Just doing it for fun. I'm a bird guy that wanted to play around with a fish blank to improve my airbrushing. This is an ARP 3d bass from Mckenzie. I glued the tail into the slot and then attempted to "blend" the junction with fin magic. Kinda guessed on how much to use and thought I'd feathered it enough that it wouldn't show. Now that I've begun painting, it's become abundantly clear I used WAAAAY too much and did a very poor job of blending. The glob of fin magic is very visible now that i've put some paint on it. Looking for options to make this less noticeable. I doubt attempting to grind some of this down would work so I was thinking about mixing up more fin magic (yikes) and trying to "blend my blend" even if that meant taking it all the way out to the tip of the tail but doing it very thinly this time.

    upload_2019-3-16_7-43-34.png
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    The line where the tail meets the fish catches my eye not so much where the fin magic stops on the tail and that will likely all but disappear when you gloss the fish. Replicating the grooves and countours
     
    Jason Rader and Cecil like this.

  3. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Easy fix. Take a cutting tool with your dremmel and grind in the rays. Then switch bits to something that you can dremmel in the scales at the base.
     
  4. If i bring the colors of my tail onto the "skin" of the fish will that help eliminate that stark contrast of tail/body? to be honest....that line exists because i taped the tail off when i started painting thinking i didn't want to get overspray on it. In hindsight, that was a mistake and i should've been blending that transition in too. Dang!
     
  5. Check out the post on fixing a seam line,fish art has a tool on there for making the scale pattern he's talking about
     
    Jason Rader and FishArt like this.
  6. Thanks for the advice Marty. Is adding the scales at the base something i could've/should've done when the fin magic was fresh and first applied? I assume if i'd used the fin magic correctly in the beginning when blending my tail transition then i wouldn't have covered up the scales that were in the blank, right? Using a dremel is the way to correct that mistake after the fact and not Plan A?
     
    FishArt likes this.
  7. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    Damn this site is enough to piss off the pope lately. Jason Pm me your email address, if this site will let you
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
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  8. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    No problem Jason. Either or will work. I sometimes allow my Apoxie Sculpt to set up and then sculpt in the scales. Othertimes, if I don't want to try timing that period when the epoxy has set up - or whatever, I just let it harden and dremmel in. It doesn't matter. Results are the same. In fact I've been using the dremmel more and more vs sculpting in. Just seems easier/quicker and I don't have to babysit epoxies at all.
     
  9. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    I'll give it one more try today. Jason, There are a bunch of ways to handle rebuilding scales. Carve em in when dry, do it while the apoxie is wet using a pin, straw, tool made to resemble the scale or by making an impression mold and using it or even just drawing them in during the painting. As far as rebuilding the tail texture, recoat the whole tail and a little on the juncture to blend out that harsh line. Use a wire brush or a piece of screen to retexture the lines in the fin as it dries, depending on when you do that you can soften them with a brush. Blend juncture with scales rebuilt by your desired way.
     
    Jason Rader and FishArt like this.
  10. Just keep working at it ,apoxie work is a definite learning curve that we all have struggled with at sometime.
     
    FishArt, Jason Rader and Mudbat like this.
  11. Mudbat

    Mudbat Well-Known Member

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    Fin magic sands like shit and that will need to be sanded and steel wooled. I’d recommend using klei or apoxie sculpted next time. Just my opinion with mean nothing in the grand scheme of things though
     
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  12. Hope I don't regret attempting to fix my fin junctions. Grinding all of that fin magic down went better than I expected. The tail itself is gonna be good as new. Now I'll attempt to blend this again using suggestions from you fine folks. Then hope to be able to dremel or stamp scales into my repair and do my best to repaint the tail area. Scary for an amateur to do this much destruction after the fish was basically completely painted.
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. That looks much better.
     
    Sotired likes this.
  14. Clew

    Clew Help a child, Build our future

    cut back on your epoxy
    way too much
    when you pull that tape off fix the edges of thick paint
     
  15. Monty Python

    Monty Python Member

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    I use apoxy sculpt and feather it into the fin rays with a damp q-tip. I don't use much. After dry a very thin coat of tuff-fin seals the deal. I agree that fin magic is hard to work with and detail. It also sags if you are not careful
     
  16. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Also, quit using tape! Masking, as you can see it leaves easily seen marks where the paint stops.