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I Need Recommendations

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by SpanishGirl, May 4, 2019.

  1. SpanishGirl

    SpanishGirl Member

    94
    2
    Spain
    Yesterday I was given a chinese water dragon baby that passed away by natural causes. At first I thought to articulate it, but when I collected it up, i saw how small it was and now I think it is better to make a wet specimen. Now is frozen.
    What do you recommendme? Will dermestid do a good job or they will eat it all?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    Bones are too soft still and the beetles will eat most of it. Wet specimen is better.
     

  3. SpanishGirl

    SpanishGirl Member

    94
    2
    Spain
    So wet specimen will be. Thank you Sea Wolf!!
     
  4. SpanishGirl

    SpanishGirl Member

    94
    2
    Spain
    A friend of mine told me that in paints stores sell pure formil to make the paint, so I decided to go and buy some liters. I guess it would work.
    So how do I do? I leave the dragon soak for a few weeks and then pass it into alcohol? Or forever in formil?
     
  5. PA

    PA Well-Known Member

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    Pure formalin is actually about 37% formaldehyde gas dissolved in water with some methanol to prevent polymerization. Assuming you obtain pure formalin dilute this solution 1 part formalin to 9 parts water to get 10% formalin which is used to preserve the specimen. The best manual for you in Spanish is circular 2 at the SSAR site https://ssarherps.org/publications/books-pamphlets/herpetological-circulars/ if you have a dropbox account it will down load this manual which is a translation of the English version.
    Pisani, G.R. and J. Villa. 1974. Guia de tecnicas de preservacion de anfibios y reptiles. Herpetological Circulars No. 2.
     
    SpanishGirl likes this.
  6. SpanishGirl

    SpanishGirl Member

    94
    2
    Spain
    Sorry when I said "pure" I meant that they sell "a jar of formalin mixed without anything else". Sorry for my english...

    So you insure me I can use that formalin, isnt you? Anyway I did not go yet to ask to the store, I still dont know the % they have.

    Thank so much bout the book!! Ive read it but didnt clarified my doubts about how long into formalin and then pass it to alcohol. Once I read that formalin decompose the specimen, so once is fixed, must be transfer to alcohol, and in the book I cant find about that...
     
  7. Kinisi_ Tou_ Dermatos

    Kinisi_ Tou_ Dermatos New Member

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    I did a salamander in epoxy resin for a friend of mine. Have you ever tried encasing in epoxy resin?
     
  8. PA

    PA Well-Known Member

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    How long a specimen remains in formalin depends on the size. A very large turtle if injected well might need a couple weeks in formalin before transferring to ethanol, whereas a small salamander just a day or two. The specimens should be injected with the diluted formalin mixture and soaked in the same, making sure you position it how you wish. Transferring to 70% ethanol (ethyl alcohol) if often in a stepwise manner, especially with soft bodied salamanders and frogs. If you go directly into very strong alcohol, it will often shrivel or shrink the specimen. Better to go stepwise - overnight rinse in plain water, the next day switch to 40% EtOH and leave for a few days, then into 60% a few days then finally into 70-75%. Each change will extract some of the formalin solution and remove this solution which is acidic and can ultimately destroy the specimen if stored forever in formalin. Sometimes collection do buffer the formalin for long term storage if the specimens are to be sectioned for histology.
     
    SpanishGirl likes this.
  9. SpanishGirl

    SpanishGirl Member

    94
    2
    Spain
    This is what I need to know, than you!

    In short, I have dragon some days in formaldehyde and then one night in plain water to remove all the formalin possible, but if I injected it, how Im sure it is all out and wont destroy the specimen from inside?