1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

Tear Duct Help

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by passthru, Sep 25, 2019.

  1. I see there are several posts on the tear ducts and have tried the recommendation, but still struggle with them opening. I make sure they are super thinned using a dermel with a sanding drum, focusing on about a 3" circle around the duct to eliminate shrinkage and pulling. As for the form prep, I use a scalpel blade to start the initial slot, which is not straight in, but up at an angle. I circle the duct opening with critter clay and using the lip tucking tool, push the duct into position and close the critter clay over the duct opening. I ensure there is adequate hide paste. The head is bagged for several days, checking often to fix any movement. I have tried to use Pins to hold in place but do not get consistent results. Looking for some ideas/methods to try on the duct. any thought or input will be greatly appreciated.
  2. Lance.G

    Lance.G Well-Known Member

    I feel your pain. I have the same problem. Some stay tight and some open up. I can’t figure it out.

  3. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Here’s what I do. I make slot with a lip tucking tool only , so it’s a thin slit going forward towards the nose , not sharply but forwards. I do make sure the outside area is sanded. I thin the cape tear duct area thin an cut a slit in bottom of duct . I do this as I feel if you push anything in a slot you are also pushing air into it and air will eventually push back . So I cut it to release that air . So now when mounting I put glue on skin around the duct and then I put a small roll of all game / epoxy sculpt the same length of the form tear duct on the front edge , then I use a 4 inch All to push skin in and forward to full depth , I push a 2 inch pin in top and bottom of slot really deep then I push the allgame/epoxy sculpt down and shape accordingly for a natural look . Remember the AG/ ES will harden in hours . I also go back and push skin in for 3 days 2 or 3 times a day , bagging and misting area with water for a slow dry , works for me , hope it works for you guys , I also use pro 1 hide paste and I feel that helps out the most 8C0B149A-2BEA-4867-BDC8-A8FD552793D3.png B40F0E81-510F-4EB0-9B04-722B477D78EF.png
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2019
  4. Great information, thanks for your time.
  5. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Your very welcome and if you need more or have a question, pm me and I’ll send you my phone number
  6. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    I added that I also use pro 1 hide paste that to me helps a lot
  7. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I made sure I had adequate slack skin on the face and pushed the slack skin in towards the tear duct.
    Trophy Specialist likes this.
  8. jigginjim

    jigginjim Active Member

    I heard of where a wedge is cut out to lock in the hair after cape is mounted. Saw it at MN game fair, the guys doing it saw this in the Wisconsin taxidermy show. Maybe someone there can show this.
  9. BO-N-ARO

    BO-N-ARO Hunt hard but hunt safe!

    When I started using an epoxy hide paste on the face those problems went away.
    I stuff the nostrils with plastic and remove a couple days later, use one insect pin in the duct and one each on the upper and lower front of the eyes.
    swampfox2 likes this.
  10. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Well-Known Member

    That's all I do. As long as I have plenty of skin then it stays closed.
    swampfox2 likes this.
  11. msestak

    msestak Well-Known Member

    wouldnt a small T-Pin keep those suckers closed ? cut your slot, push the skin in and secure it with the T-Pin, just bury it and leave it there. the client wont see it.
    swampfox2 likes this.
  12. swampfox2

    swampfox2 Well-Known Member

    I have done this for years and it works fine for me too !
    george p and msestak like this.
  13. jk

    jk Active Member

    One more thing that has not been mentioned. I do all that was mentioned but I put one "T" pin about 1/4 " into the hair above the tear duct and one about 1/4" below in hair line. When I do this I bunch the skin a little to take the pressure of of the tear duct. I also over tuck a little so when the skin shrinks it still is hair to hair.
    swampfox2 and msestak like this.
  14. crablover

    crablover Well-Known Member

    Good info on tear ducts posted here. Interesting the different ways people do things for the same results. It's these tricks that make your mounts stand out among others and puts more money in your pocket Mr Jenkins gets 850.00 for a deer head and it's things like his method that people are willing to pay for
    13 point likes this.