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Spot Removal With Lacquer Thinner

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by h20halo, Feb 28, 2020.

  1. h20halo

    h20halo Member

    Okay, using water based paints. I want to try and remove paint to make markings on a walleye, like the head and body areas. I know I need to seal the layer I want to expose (yellowish) and remove the markings in the top layer (golden brown). So, since I'm using water based paints, do I seal the yellow with lacquer and then use lacquer thinner to remove the markings in the golden brown layer? Or do I seal with lacquer and use alchohol to remove the markings in the golden brown layer?

    Seems like if I use lacquer to seal and lacquer thinner to remove markings in the golden brown layer it will also bleed through the lacquer sealer and remove the yellow layer. Is this right?
     
  2. Lance.G

    Lance.G Well-Known Member

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    You will probably go through all layers with laquer thinner on a brush.

    If you seal then use laquer based paint for your top coat you could blow off spots with your airbrush shooting laquer thinner. Kinda make a pattern.

    Or you could seal the fish after your base layers. Apply chalk where you want your pattern. Then spray your next layer. Wipe off chalk, and you got a pattern.
     

  3. Fermis

    Fermis Well-Known Member

    As I understand it!
    If lacquer is unaffected by alcohol, that's the route to go.
    You can always do a "test shot" on something unimportant...plastic spoons are handy for doing test shots!

    *disclaimer...I have zero experience with this method or water paints or alcohol(that ya can't drink!)
     
  4. Jon S

    Jon S Well-Known Member

    I don't know about using a lacquer sealer over water based paint.
    I have done it on crappie fins using a water based sealer and then removing top paint layer with alcohol. You have to go easy or you will remove everything, but it can be done.
     
  5. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    I personally prefer to put on a base coat of color, remove the markings with alcohol and a q-tip or micro brush, then layer very transparent color over it. This is more like tinting a real skin.
     
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  6. Clew

    Clew Help a child, Build our future

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    If your sealing with lacquer the applying waters use alcohol to remove what’s needed for the waters
    Once seal with lacquers your committed
     
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  7. Sotired

    Sotired Active Member

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    I forgot to mention water pens, never used one, but they look like they might work.
     
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  8. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Be careful even with the use of alcohol for that will remove lacquer paints.
    It is an additive when mixing lacquer paints. Takes a little longer to rub off using it but will damage the paint.
     
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  9. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    I have to ask, what markings on a walleye are you trying to replicate? Are you referring to the different colored scales throughout the fish or the spots on the cheeks? I guess I have never tried that method you are asking about before. I go through and highlight each one of those scales and spots with various paints and intensities during my painting process to achieve that look.
     
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  10. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    It’s what Rick does on his reproduction Walleye.
     
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  11. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    Ok, thanks Frank, I have not seen that one. I use a variation of both of the techniques talked about on this thread on repro pike and crappie fins but have not ever even thought to use it on a walleye. I will try it on my next walleye repro, especially the head, I've been not quite satisfied with those yet.
     
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  12. h20halo

    h20halo Member

    Ok, yes, it was in reference to Rick Krane's video on Walleye reproduction. What I did kind of turned out to be a disaster, so I just wiped it all off and will start over. I used a white primer over the blank. I didn't have a brown paint and instead of mixing like I should have I used panpastel. The brown was good but it didn't come off with alcohol. I didn't have lacquer thinner, so I put the white marks on with a white chalk marking pen. It looked ok, but when the white dried I could see a lot of start/stop marks from the marker. When I yellowed out the fish it looked even more noticable. I got some lacquer thinner and that did take off what I wanted, however, I didn't like the whole look and just wiped it clean. Back to square 1, but a good learning experience. Thanks for all the inputs.
     
    Lance.G likes this.
  13. h20halo

    h20halo Member

    I guess the biggest takeaway was the lacquer thinner took off the panpastel fine without removing the primer as long as you didn't use too much. I still think I'm better off mixing up a brown airbrush paint and then using a solvent to make the marks, whether it be lacquer thinner or alcohol.
     
  14. Fermis

    Fermis Well-Known Member

    Another idea for ya...

    I 've been working on a crappie...along with (Rick Kranes video)...and similarly, for the fin/tail markings, the method is to coat them in charcoal, and wipe of the spots. This was a massive fail for me. The charcoal wanted no part of participating in its removal (pretty sure my base was too flat/matte). Anyway, I scrubbed off all I could with water and an old toothbrush. I used "poster-tac" putty to mask the markings (I've been using the stuff for years, for masking camo patterns on my model airplanes). I just pinch off little bits and roll em into little balls...it can also be rolled into "worms" for those "wormy" patterns on walleye. With the masking in place, I mixed up some Minwax clear gloss, and tinted it with a dark grey/black color and airbrushed it on.

    [​IMG]

    I think I got a bit heavy handed with the spots, especially on the tail...but being only my 3rd fish (1st crappie), I'm still diggin it!
    I also tried the charcoal for the body markings...wasn't pleased, so I airbrushed those.
     
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  15. Jon S

    Jon S Well-Known Member

    Looks like it works pretty well. What is Poster Tac Putty?
     
  16. Fermis

    Fermis Well-Known Member

    It's a soft, sticky putty for putting up posters.
    (there's a few brands with different names)

    [​IMG]
    Available just about anywhere that has office supplies...even in the grocery store's little office supply section.
    The only drawback to it, is when it's new, some of it will be stuck to the subject when you remove it...but can be removed by repeatedly sticking and pulling a small blob of it back over what remained. It can also leave weird marks on the paint...but those disappear with the clear coats. After a few uses, when it's got some paint mixed in with it, it's less sticky and peels of cleanly. The older it gets, the more it need to be pulled/stretched/twisted/kneaded and warmed up a bit, so that it'll stick.
    I have a blob of the stuff (golf ball size) that I have been using for about 20 years on my models...100's of models! That stuff can take a lot of paint and still be useful!
     
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  17. h20halo

    h20halo Member

    Thanks for the tip, Fermis! I like this idea and i'll give it a go.
     
  18. Fermis

    Fermis Well-Known Member

    You're very welcome!

    Also...not sure what Krane uses in the video for walleye...but in the crappie video, there's a fair bit of "Pearl Ex" pigments being used. If you don't have em yet...there's a set at Michael's in Brighton (I just picked up the set today). There's several colors that may never be used....but they only offer them as a "set". 30 bucks...but the 40% off coupon is easy enough to pull up on your phone.