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Rhinehardt Tanning Cream

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by Bruce M, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. Bruce M

    Bruce M Member

    69
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    Hi to all. I am a beginner in taxidermy and this is my first post to this forum. I recently completed my first deer shoulder mount and am working on my second. Being new to the process I used rhinehardt products along with the videos at free taxidermy school. In the supplies he gives his tanning cream as the product to tan with. I went through the flesh, salt, rinse, tanning cream, rinse, final flesh, thin process and the mount came out well. By reading other content in this thread I am wondering on thoughts about this tanning process and if it is adequate for long term quality in the mount. Wondering if I should be doing something different. Has any one else used this product and have thoughts on its effectiveness / quality? Thanks for your help.
     
  2. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I always did the final fleshing at the beginning.

    I received the cape, turned, split and then fleshed the cape completely so that there was no more fleshing that could be done.
    I did the thinning in the pickle.

    When I went to a no pickle rub on "tan", I received the cape, turned, split, fleshed completely, then thinned it as thin as I could get it before continuing on with the process.

    I did a change out head as an experiment with a fleshed raw skin (no preservative at all) and it has held up fine over the last 20 some years and I did one with a pickled only head skin with the same result. I have DP'd mounts that have lasted over 20 years, so I usually don't worry to much about longevity. Having said that, I have had these climate controlled. You can't control a customer, so, some skins may last longer than others due to how they are taken care of.
     

  3. Bruce M

    Bruce M Member

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    24
    Thanks Tanglewood - so it sounds like I am ok to proceed in the same manner. I did try to do some thinning after the tan cream step but I couldn't get much more material off the hide - the skife kept plugging and I felt like I was just moving material around - nothing was coming off. I also noticed that after tanning there was a very thin almost connective tissue like stuff left. I could remove this but it came off in such small bits and pieces that I decided to just leave it as I was doing more harm to the cape when removing than good. It definitely wasn't fat or muscle - should I be getting all of this material off too or will this just dry and become part of the inner hide? Is this what comes off during the thinning of a dry cape? sorry for the lots of questions - I want to be good at this and do it right from the start. Any help you or anyone else reading would be much appreciated. Trying to teach yourself can feel like shooting in the dark. Thanks
     
  4. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Your process for that cream seems ok if that is what the instructions say to do except for your final fleshing and thinning of the cape are in the wrong order.

    All of that membrane should come off as well as all the meat and fat before you salt it. Thinning is done when the cape is wet from rehydration from the salting step and before tanning. Or if you are pickling the cape, the thinning happens there.
     
  5. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    So just how long is "long enough". I started using JRTS (whose original formula was without equal and not a bit like this crap they're selling today) in 1996. Those mounts look just as good as I was capable of doing back then and the quality of the hide is no different from the mounts that were professionally tanned. The only thing I ever did differently was that when the paint on had set the requisite 6 hours, I folded it up in a plastic sheet and froze it until I was ready to mount. It never froze hard. I'd take it out and wash it in WARM water to remove all the JRTS and then give it a quick wash in Knobloch's Prewash Presoak and spin the hide dry in an old dryer. Then I'd wrap the hide in a towel until the flesh side became tacky. The hide was puffed up and made shaving it so easy as it sliced off like butter. Then I immediately mounted the cape.
     
    pir^2h likes this.
  6. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I hate it when you have a great product that works so well for you and then they go a screw it up with a "new and improved formula" or simply discontinue it. I can't tell you how many times this has happened to me while the crap products never change or are discontinued.
     
    George and pir^2h like this.
  7. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I just read the directions for Rinehart's tanning cream. You followed the directions like you should and I guess since it says final fleshing and thinning after the cream has set in, who am I to second guess their product. Still, I don't like the idea of tanning a hide that still needs fleshing done.
     
    pir^2h likes this.
  8. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Like George, I too, liked the old John Rinehart formula. I never had an issue with it. Dan Rinehart claims what he sells to be the "Original formula." I don't think so. It doesn't even smell the same. I used it on two deer capes and lost both to slipping hair all over the place. (I bought three capes from the same seller, all sent to me at the same time) The third I used Ez-100. No problems. Coincidence? Maybe, but I doubt it. I was thinking of trying True Bond 1000B. Does anyone who used this paint on recently have insights on this product?