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Is Apoxie Sculpt Best?

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by drob, Jul 1, 2020.

  1. drob

    drob Active Member

    I'm having trouble using apoxie sculpt as a finishing medium.I home tan and try to get my capes as thin as possible (using a Dakota flesher.etc.)After tanning and before mounting I also use a skife knife to thin facial areas (eyes.nose.antler burrs.etc.)The problem I'm having is that when I use apoxie sculpt around the deer eyes,it cracks and sometimes the skin will shrink away.I am aware that if the skin is not thin enough it will shrink,but I thought that the adheasive properties of the sculpt would help.I let every deer mount dry at least 15 days before I do my finish and paint work and I'm usually finished mounting before the humidity starts to tick up.If anyone could suggest a better product or a better method I would appreciate the help! THANKS
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Use critter clay , bag your mount for 4 days also , so use CC then every day adjusts as needed as it drys . You want it to dry as slow as possible and is why you bag it after mounting , then adjust and re bag . Use apoxeysculpt for finishing, you will find out it doesn’t take that much to finish your eyes as your skin will stay pretty tight as it should by bagging and adjusting for the first week basically .
    Richard C, dmac1175 and drob like this.

  3. drob

    drob Active Member

    Thankyou,I'll try that!
  4. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    What are you using to smooth out and blend the sculpt? I do similar to what 13point mentioned and but use apoxie clay for any finish work on big game and use rubbing alcohol to smooth and blend, used moderately it won't rehydrate the skin like water or other liquids will.
    Keith, drob and Fallenscale like this.
  5. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Yes what 3bears said, don’t use water I use safety solvent , it’s made for smoothing out apoxeysculpt, most suppliers carry it

    Attached Files:

  6. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Sorry I’ll add this ,sculpt your eyes out with critter clay and let it dry hard . I’m not talking days . I prep my form and do my eyes and then I prep cape put ears in sew holes and such by that time CC is hard and I can pull my short incision cape over form and I don’t hurt my eye work . After I align my cape I sprits a little water thru eye hole and set mouth , nose , staple the back and by that time the clay has softened up to tuck eye .
    drob likes this.
  7. drob

    drob Active Member

    OK,I'll try that also.Thanks for all your help!!
  8. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    If your skin is shrinking away from the Apoxie Sculpt, your mount hasn't fully dried before you did the finish work. Once everything from the clay to the hide paste to the skin is TOTALLY dry, it shouldn't shrink anymore.
    Bluenose Moose, GWebb, joeym and 3 others like this.
  9. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    I don't mount deer heads for profit so am in no hurry to finish them but I would never start finish work before at least a 30 day dry cycle. Especially if it is in a humid area.
    drob likes this.
  10. countrycritter

    countrycritter Active Member

    What kind of glue are you using? I used to have similar problems when using the cheaper stuff then changed to Pro 1 hide paste and absolutely no problems since. All my mounts dry for a minimum of 1 week with an average of 3 -4 days bagged. Then at end of second week I do all epoxy work on Thursday and paint on Saturday.
    If you work in a humid environment you might invest in a de-humidifier also. But be careful and keep on low because it could dry them out too fast.
    drob likes this.
  11. byrdman

    byrdman Well-Known Member

    paintable latex caulk smoothed with a fine paintbrush if your just filling a thin gap between eye and lid will have some flex and will bond way better than apoxie sculpt
    ARUsher, drob and joeym like this.
  12. joeym

    joeym Jeannette & Joey @ Dunn's Falls

    I really think you are finishing your mount too soon. In my shop, which is climate controlled, nothing is finished without at least two weeks of drying time.
    drob likes this.
  13. drob

    drob Active Member

    Got my first supply of Pro-1 about a month ago,hopefully it will help!
  14. 15pt

    15pt Active Member

    I've been setting my eyes with apoxie sculp for a while now and I never have gaps like I did with clay. I tuck it under the sculp and do a few adjustments and leave it alone. If you have confidence in your eye sets it's the way to go in my opinion.
  15. Can I get some elaboration on the process of bagging? This is the first ive heard of this process. Also, you guys are making me nervous that I may not be letting my stuff dry long enough.
  16. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Just pull a big bag over your mounts , I don’t let the bag touch animals for the most part , just take bag off every day, adjust rebag. I have a post on here somewhere. Practice what I preach or something like that dry slow is better
  17. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Large garbage bag.
  18. Heath Cline

    Heath Cline Well-Known Member

    I do all my eye work with Apoxie Sculpt and finish work with Apoxie Clay and no bagging and never have had a problem.
    I dont think the Apoxie Sculpt is to blame. I would say like others have mentioned about drying time.