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Eye To Burr Measurement On A Elk

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Dwb5, Sep 17, 2020.

  1. Dwb5

    Dwb5 Member

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    I'm about to mount my second elk. The first one turned out ok but one problem I had was the hair pulled away from the burr some. I was wondering if anyone had a average eye to burr measurement for a elk. I no most the deer I mount the average is around 3in.
     
  2. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    I like to measure from tip of nose to the burr and then line the skull plate up with the form using this measurement. Should get you real close. You should be able to get this measurement from the relaxed cape if need be.
     
    George and Dwb5 like this.

  3. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I always took measurements when it came in, however, that's not always possible when the customer brings in a cape and skull plate.
    What I would do in these situations is to have the cape tanned, rehydrate the head and then stretch and arrange it to look like it was on a form and take my measurements from that.
     
    Dwb5 likes this.
  4. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Most of the time the skullplate is cut off just behind the eye sockets flare out . So find same spot on form and adjust from there . But your going to have pull away from burr ped if you don’t have it glued good . I build out my burr ped with apoxeysculpt and then I use hide paste under it , that said after I sew it up and align hair patterns I take and pull skin away from ped at top and squeeze some crazy glue gel around burr and press hide in then push the hide paste up and around burr . No nails needed this way .
     
    George, Robert Baker, Dwb5 and 2 others like this.
  5. Dwb5

    Dwb5 Member

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    Ok thanks for the help everybody. Hopefully this one will go smother than the last one.
     
    Robert Baker likes this.
  6. joeym

    joeym Jeannette & Joey @ Dunn's Falls

    It's always better to have them a little too close than too far back. I measure the distance from the back of the eye to the burr on the cape, then subtract about 1/2" Then, I set the antlers temporarily, and test fit. The distance on the animal is an arc, not a straight line, so test fitting is a must.
     
    Robert Baker, Dwb5 and Westcoast like this.
  7. Jimmy Rimrock

    Jimmy Rimrock Yeah, they come to snuff the rooster

    I measure on the cape with a piece of wire. Then form/bend it on the skull plate/form to where the back edge of the eye will be. That way it follows all the curves. The whole area of the cape needs to be thin, and a little more cape is better than not enough. You can rebuild and or paint any small gaps to where they don't stand out. You can't "regap" the eye, sort of like mounting african stuff, only a LOT easier.
     
    Dwb5, joeym and Robert Baker like this.
  8. Keith

    Keith Well-Known Member

    As others have stated, you can measure, but a loose test fit is critical.

    For example....The eye to burr measurement might be correct but the distance between the eyes is too wide on the form for your skin, your going to be off on the eye to burr because the skin in being taken up somewhere else.
     
    Dwb5 likes this.
  9. Dwb5

    Dwb5 Member

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    Thanks for all the help guys. So far so good with him. It blows my mind the little tricks that you all know!!!
     
  10. Westcoast

    Westcoast Active Member

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    Tip of the iceberg, there is literally hundreds of years of knowledge And experience on this forum.
     
    Dwb5 likes this.
  11. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I have been doing this since the 80's and I learned something new from this thread. You will never stop learning. I didn't expect all the answers.
     
    Dwb5 likes this.
  12. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    After I have the burr location correct I run a small worm of mache or clayshay, do not use critter clay because it will pop right off after it dries, around the area just below the burr and let harden. After the skin is pulled onto form and before any sewing I fill this gap with a two part epoxy and then pull and tuck the skin around the antlers into this epoxy and sew up.
    Have never had a problem using this method. Would probably even work for a short cut cape if a fast set mache was used for the worm.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
    Dwb5 likes this.
  13. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Al Holmes gave me his method and as goofy as it sounds, it never failed. It works on ALL animals with elevated pedicel.

    When you're caping out, start at the BOTTOM of the pedicab to begin your "Y" incision. Mark that point with a Sharpie or nick it with your knife. Then cut up the pedicel to complete your caping.

    When mounting, start you stitches at the mark going down. After you complete sewing, start a stitch at the mark. Coat the front of the pedicel with super glue gel and put the shin in place up under the burr.

    Now the trick. Sew UP the pedicel for 2vor 3 stitches. Take a large zip-tieand cinch the cape tightly under those stitches. Then complete the seam while adding super glue gel