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Going To Send Off My Hides To A Tannery This Year, What Do I Need To Know?

Discussion in 'The Taxidermy Industry' started by Clovis Point, Sep 20, 2020.

  1. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    I have decided that I am just too slow fleshing my stuff myself by hand and I want to use a commercial tannery. My mentor recommended Sivko in NY.

    Some questions I have are mainly in regards to the process.

    Do I need to mark my capes ? I currently use numbered cattle ear tags, punched down at the bottom, for my own use. Will there be s problem with these and the process/chemicals they use? I DO NOT want to have to play guess which cape goes with what antlers.

    As long as everything is good and frozen are they good to send double bagged and in a box? What is a typical turn around time for a batch of capes sent in early december?

    Is there much shrinkage? Should any measurement adjustments be made? I currently measure specimans when I get them and then i measure the green hide after it is divorced from skull and the bigger chunks of meat are knocked off (I DP my hides so I have not ever really had shrinkage problems like I have some of you who use tanned hides describe).

    Is there anything else I dont know or am over looking ?

    Thanks Jay
  2. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    I would consult with the tannery about the cattle tags. I don't see why there would be a problem. To be honest, I would send off a small batch, maybe half to begin with, and see how satisfied you are with them. I've been down that road, and it didn't work for me. I always sent off dry salted capes. You are making the process more timely and expensive by sending green frozen skins. Most of your questions would be better answered by the tannery. You will need to order mannikins based on the dimensions of the tanned capes.
    Keith and Kerby Ross like this.

  3. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    If the tags are plastic and have stamped in numbers they won't be a problem with chemicals but they will probably get ripped off in the process. Punching your own code into the back end of the hide would be better. As for the frozen hides, you positively need to be talking to the tannery. I send dry, salted hides and those hides might sit for several days before they are sent through. If you send frozen hides, and they sit, you will lose the entire shipment. The best thing is for you to go over their terms on their own website. Did you do that? http://www.sivkofur.com/shipping-and-receiving.htm
    joeym likes this.
  4. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    I got a domain error when I searched the site. I think I might have spelled it wrong.
  5. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    I got a domain error when I searched the site. I think I might have spelled it wrong.
  6. drob

    drob Well-Known Member

    I have used sivco for years with good results,but this is 2020 and everything is different!Make sure you contact them before you ship,just to see how they are doing this year(607-698-4827)
  7. Richard C

    Richard C Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the tradition of taxidermy tanning roulette.
  8. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Why are you sending them out. Having such good luck with no shrinkage using dp is awesome to hear. Only a real pro knows how to do this as there is no need for a tannery in your mind.
    Now are you going to come and rant on here after you get your tanned skins back and find out you still have to thin them, use a good hide paste and like any acid get shrinkage? I’m curious cause I can see it happening.
    Now since your new to tanning hides. Wait till you get them back. Do a wet tan. Then measure your size and compare it to your green measurements and go from there.
  9. Keith

    Keith Well-Known Member

    We send most all hides salted and dried to tannery.

    We tan the small critters in-house. We only do maybe a dozen smaller animals a year.

    Cattle tags zip tied to the lower ear but, with corresponding punch at the the shoulder, or butt (if lifesize).
  10. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    You say your sending them to tannery because your slow at fleshing . So are you sending them there raw and frozen . If not you still have to flesh them or are you just talking bout thinning them after 1st pickle ? As far as tagging , you should punch your hides with a code number . Take a old Phillips screw driver and grind it on 3 side to make a chisel point this way it’s a distinct hole , then punch each cape in center of back on back edge , my receipts have a 6 digit number so I use the last 3 digits as that clients cape code . It can’t be tore or ripped off it can’t get a dent to screw it up where you can’t read it . It’s very simple to do and at no extra cost . Here is how you do it and for your tickets that have a 0 you just make a little slice , you punch 5 holes straight down for a 5 and so on . Remember you can punch code them where you want so if it comes back and code is not there you know it’s not your cape image.jpg
  11. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    Clovis Point:

    I think you are opening yourself up for a lot of expense and misery by shipping those frozen capes out. Have you tried pressure washing? I pressure wash every cape after skinning. I even give the hair side a washing...you won't believe the amount of blood, dirt, and ticks you will remove. Just hold the wand back from the hair about 18 inches, and move fast. Capes are frozen after they are pressure washed. As I get into mounting deer, I thaw 2 capes at a time and flesh the face and turn the ears. This takes me about 1 hour and 15 minutes per cape. The older I get, the more I like fleshing...to me it's relaxing. I have a cup of coffee, Fox Business News, and both capes are finished around 8 am. From here, you can salt, dry and ship/ tan them yourself/ or DP, shave, and mount. You should tell your customers it will take longer than previous years if you ship them out. I DP and mount all my deer. I have nothing against tanned capes...matter of fact, I send a lot of stuff to tanneries...elk, stags, antelope, and goats, and ranch exotics. Beginning February 15, I mount 5 deer per week til I'm finished...usually around July 1.
  12. countrycritter

    countrycritter Active Member

    I have been using wildlife gallery for well over 10 years now. They come by my shop during deer season once a month and about every 6-8 weeks in the summer I never salt or thin them I send them green and frozen. Never had a problem with slippage. I put a waterproof tag in the ear butt plus punch the right leg with work order number. Tags do get knocked off but the leg number is almost always there. Sometimes they cut too deep when fleshing and the number is gone. Very rare but it happens. As far as measurements go I take measurements before the animal is skinned and that's all the cape should stretch back to at least that measurement once relaxed and prepped for mounting.
    Before I found the wild life gallery I used several different tanneries and all were basically the same not very dependable I'd vouch for the gallery any day.
    Good luck.
    13 point likes this.
  13. Monty Hoffstrom

    Monty Hoffstrom Member

    Hello Jay,

    Don't get screwed on shipping charges. I help taxidermists all over the country ship hides to tanneries in California, North Carolina, Texas and Michigan. Let me know if you need a shipping quote. I will make sure you don't overpay.

    Monty Hoffstrom
    DLS Worldwide
    2594 Rice Street
    St. Paul, MN 55115

    [email protected]
    Cell 651.600.5149
  14. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    The reason im wanting to do this is to avoid fleshing.

    Joey, I always value your input as much or more than anyone else on here. The reason im wanting to do this is to avoid fleshing... yes I have used a pressure washer, and to be honest, it may be the game changer that makes me change my mind. Before pressure washer it took me about 5 or 6 hours to get one ready to powder. It only takes me 3 hours to mount one after its powdered. I figured if I could cut out that 5 hour task for about $100 a hide that would mean that I could have 3 deer mounted in the time it used to take me to mout 1. Seemed like it was worth the additional overhead.

    But pressure washing has gotten my fleshing time down to about 2 hours... so now I am really on the fence. My life situation makes pressure washing challenging. I farm all day and do taxidermy in the evenings, about 4 or 5 hours a night but always at night... after supper until 11 pm or so ( the time when everyone else relaxes ). Most my deer get mounted in the cold temp early sunset months. I dont have a really good well lit place where I can run the pressure washer during these times and at these temps. I mean I own insulated waterproof boots and carhart coveralls and I have done alot more challenging tasks by the light of my headlamp but..... damn. The thought of pressure washing every cape by headlamp light in 40* weather sounds about as fun as driving a 10 penny nail through my sack. especially compared to working in my studio with the stove jammed full of split cedar rolling right along and keeping it toasty.

    But now that I am learning that it may cost me more than that to send green hides, or if i even can at all. I guess I was wrong in thinking I could send my hides green after skinning out and knocking the bigger chunks of meat off.

    Again thats why i am asking, because I dont know ive never done it before.
  15. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    Do you have a fleshing machine? If yes, you can shave the whole thing raw cape as thin as thin can be and most of the face too in less than an hour. If you don't have one, get one. It will pay for itself in no time as the tanning expenses will add up. Don't go cheap. If you want to get a Dakota, go Pro. S&S makes a good one as well as other that you can find.