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Tuning My Round Blade....

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by woakley144, Mar 29, 2021.

  1. woakley144

    woakley144 Active Member

    I have a Dakota V, put a new blade on it at the beginning of the season and loved it again..... BUT after shaving about 20 hides I can't seem to find the sweet spot with the tuning steels.... I'm at my wits end and have about 20 more to shave.....

    Fleshing is wearing me out with a semi dull blade.
     
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    I use WD40 on blade and steel I come from the back side starting low and roll steel up and over , pushing the edge downward rolling it over a bit , keeping oil on it , then go back to hook side keeping steel at a 45 going up into the hook edge and I start lifting steel spaying WD on it , I lift till I hear it change in pitch sound . Which is a little past a 90 . That usually does it . Most don’t roll the edge back down as I explained in the beginning, not doing that make you have a rounded cutting edge . Do above moving steel slowly listening for the pitch sounds to change and use the WD
     
    Westcoast, drob, livbucks and 2 others like this.

  3. woakley144

    woakley144 Active Member

    Thanks 13 point! Will give it a try in the morning!
     
  4. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    You may have to do it a little at a time or a few times, but it will bring it back , you may have to lift front hook a little higher but never put a DRY STEEL to you blade . I have a little container that I spray WD in and I dip the steel . Hope that helps ya , let me know the outcome. Your welcome
     
  5. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Not sure when your trying to keep your blade sharp cause I may be tuning my wheel sometimes once during a shave to keep it that way. If your waiting to tune it like after 3-5 or more hides it becomes way harder to keep it sharp. Ole shaver here aka Aubrey Young is on FB and you should watch him with a couple of videos on him working his blade. You might pick up some good info there or check out DH Price and his video on set up and keeping your blade tuned like a pro. I use a tanneries blade which is way better than what our taxidermy suppliers sell. So many think big lip, hard steel, or stainless steel is better and lol if it was why don’t tanneries use them? www.fleshingmachines.com
     
  6. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Frank,

    Where do you purchase a tannery blade?
     
    Frank E. Kotula likes this.
  7. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    D.Price likes this.
  8. D.Price

    D.Price Well-Known Member

    Wyatt, tuning is a constant thing. I may steel a blade 5 or 6 times during one cape depending on many variables. Hang in there, it is a learning experience and once you get it, it's like riding a bike.

    I'm assuming this is the blade you got from me a while back. They don't last forever and will need to have a new edge turned on it eventually. If there is a lot of trash/debris on the skins it will shorten the life as well. It is sort of like hitting the ground or dirt with a chainsaw.

    Here are a couple of links you may want to check out. Let me know if I can help.

    https://fleshingmachines.com/tuning-fleshing-blade/
    https://fleshingmachines.com/whitetail-cape-shaving-101/
    https://fleshingmachines.com/proper-guard-setting/
    https://fleshingmachines.com/d-price-blog/

    DP
     
    DOUG H and Frank E. Kotula like this.
  9. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    On DP capes, I tune every couple of minutes. An unpickled skin makes the cutting edge roll down much faster than on pickled skins.
     
    Frank E. Kotula likes this.