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Antique Color For Silver Steelhead??

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Brad Hendrickson, May 10, 2021.

  1. Brad Hendrickson

    Brad Hendrickson Active Member

    I have a repro Steelhead in the Silver Phase/with a lighter Olive Back.

    My question is, when watching the winter phase by Rick, He antiques with BLACK. And if I'm not mistaken, he says he would do that with a silver phase too.

    Before I do I, I'm gonna try on some crap blanks, But was just wondering what
    any of you would use as an antique color... I feel the black will be to harsh/dark.. Maybe just a LIGHT mist coat, or maybe use a paynes grey instead.. or do i just go right into layering and tipping my different colors to get the olive i want..

    Just looking to pick some brains..

    thank in advance...
  2. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    I don’t antique but I do like to paint my blanks a dark color. Under Ricks thread for this month I did a barracuda and that whole blank was painted with a charcoal color then I hand painted the scales in and the followed with paints.
    Doing anything in a sliver phase you should think like how a mirror is done. Black background follow by silvers. I even dud this a palomino trout painted it dark then color it in. It’s not hard once you get used to thinking this way.
    socalmountainman likes this.

  3. Mudbat

    Mudbat Well-Known Member

    I never start out dark on silver fish but that just me, and I like to buck Frank on the idea of doing so! Hehehehe
    Frank E. Kotula likes this.
  4. Brad Hendrickson

    Brad Hendrickson Active Member

    thanks guys. he did mention dark first and lighter later...
  5. Clew

    Clew Help a child, Build our future

    York, SC
    I paint all my Chromers dark , dark grey
    Then light em up with powders
    Brad Hendrickson likes this.
  6. jimss

    jimss Active Member

    I have several of Rick's steelhead/rainbow videos. He pretty much did the same thing you mentioned for all of them. Same thing for chrome-phased salmon.

    Mine have all turned out fantastic using his technique. There are so many layers that I wouldn't worry at all about starting off dark. Once you antique most of the dark on the scales is pretty much gone. Contrast is super important and what you want!

    Tipping with silver is what really brings out the chrome. Once the silver tipping is done it's possible to lightly blend in the olive back by using other colors plus additional tipping, powders, etc (as desired).

    The nice thing about it....if you aren't happy with something it's super easy to start over until you get exactly what you want! My biggest tip in this process is to use super light coats and DON"T over-apply!
  7. Brad Hendrickson

    Brad Hendrickson Active Member

    thanks man. much appreciated
  8. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    The real question is do you guys make any money after all that time? :p
  9. jimss

    jimss Active Member

    It does take a lot of time! I do it for my own personal pieces so it’s worth it to me!
  10. 1fish2fish

    1fish2fish Well-Known Member

    This all depends on your own painting steps and proficiency.

    I encourage you to consider your approach within the context of your reference. What does it show "between the scales." On your reference, I doubt you are seeing very much "black" even when you are seeing black. How do you intend to replicate the scale and in-between scale colors?

    I don't know about the relationship of mirrors and fish, but I have seen that contrast can be friend or foe depending on application. Without precise application, it can be a hard road imo.

    Ricks videos are a great jumping off point. Your concerns show you are already working past what others tell you to do. This is favorable for your personal development. You're trending in a positive direction, imo, I hope you follow this path.
    Brad Hendrickson and Timjo like this.
  11. Brad Hendrickson

    Brad Hendrickson Active Member

    Thanks! and I plan to.