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Fish back side Repair

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by carollinacreations, Aug 24, 2007.

  1. carollinacreations

    carollinacreations New Member

    I have just mounted my first bass, and I was wandering what was the best way to fix the seam on the back of the fish so that it looks like a fish and not a seam. Does any one have any instructions, pictures etc. or can you tell me where to find some?
    How do you attach the fish to drift wood? By a hanger on the fish, drilling completely tru the drift wood? Glue? ???
    Sorry to ask such simple questions, but I want to know.
    Carolina Creations
    Mike Davis
  2. Did you carve the body? if so did you put a wood block in the body?

    Most commercial bodies have wood blocks in them to hold screws.

    There are tons of pics in the WASCO BREAKTHROUGH MANUALS on mounting fish.

    We use MAGIC SMOOTH and molds silicone molds we pulled from other fish to do the back.

    Mix MSmooth place on back smooth down with wet hands, very wet hands, you may use a large popsicle stick to help.
    Once its the depth to cover the seam, we wet the back down with water and place the mold on it and smooth the mold down, then peel away, leaves scale reproductions you may find it works better for you if you give the MSooth time to setup a bit.

  3. carollinacreations

    carollinacreations New Member

    Thanks for your help.
  4. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I don't concern myself too much with the back seam on a commerical fish. I overlap the seam with a plain white piece of custom cut paper toweling and adhere it with the same glue I use to coat my fins. It has texture and once painted blends right in. I will say the ones I've refinished that had bondo seams everyone one of them had the bondo separate from the fish. I do paint both sides of the fish though and use two eyes.

    Different strokes for different folks! But I haven't had a complaint yet from a customer. If the anatomy is excellent and the paint job is excellent the back seam should be secondary.
  5. Mounce1

    Mounce1 New Member

    Depends on how you mounted it.....filler, or form. Liek mentioned before, forms come with the block already there, and with other ways, you need to put the block in yourself with either filler or putty. From there I like to use the magic smooth. Got that tip off here (the forum) and itworks great. As far as mounting it to your driftwood, I put screws completly through the wood into the block in the back of the fish. This is all just opinion, but it does work, and i AIN'T HAD NO COMPLAINTS YET. Hope that helps ya a little.
  6. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    I thought of going back to that custom cut paper towel today you showed me when I took that class from you, Cecil.

    I always mix up to much magic sculpt and just use it. I find it really takes very little to cover a proper seam anyhow. most of my wall seams are only 1/4-1/2 inch if any. Then I texture it with a terry cloth for some dumb reason. I think I saw someone stamp their name into the seam and I started to do that one time, but figured it could be kinda arrogant if looked at wrong and I ain't that good yet. oh well getting off topic... sorry
  7. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member


    I used to put my name in the spot pattern of largemouth bass where only I could see it. ;D

    It's not arrogant to put your contact info on the back of a fish or what it's mounted on. Sometimes customers lose your phone number or want to refer you to someone else. Then all they have to do is look at the back side of the fish you mounted for them.
  8. den007

    den007 Active Member

    About that Bondo......Cecil has it right. It is NOT a glue........it will separate in time from the skin. One solution is to put a flexible epoxy compound along each edge and feather it in.
  9. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    Kinda like signing art work is what I was talking about....Or something along those lines anyhow without the contact info. I don't know its not important. :eek:

    I thought you told me that about your name...I even tried that once LOL.....I couldn't even find it I did it so small. ;D
    I place a card on the back of the wood for wall mounts and the bottom of bases for pedestals. so far its working.

    didn't mean to hijack but about attaching your fish
    I use all thread rods to attach it to what ever......... switching to wood dowels next week or so.
  10. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I knew a guy in college that liked to needle point. (No he wasn't gay in any shape or form for you homophobes on the site) He would put his name in there somewhere and only he could see it until he pointed it out.
  11. carollinacreations

    carollinacreations New Member

    :D Thanks for everybodies advice. I will try this. I just want my fish to look as realistic as possible. I want pleased customers. I look at their money the way that I look at mine. I would not want to pay someone for a sloppy, half hearted job, and neither would I want to give some one that. I want to mount each specimen as if I were going to place all of them in my own house.
    Thanks once again.
    Carolina Creations
    Mike Davis
  12. bdahyrt

    bdahyrt New Member

    Cecil, so that is where you got all those sweaters from! LOL! Sorry, couldn't resist!
  13. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Nope the sweater was a hand me down from my Green Beret dad. I'll tell him what you said though. ;D
  14. bdahyrt

    bdahyrt New Member

  15. wildwv

    wildwv New Member

    This does not make the seem look like a real fish texture but I use felt and cut the edges with pinking (sp) sheers.Looks very clean,easy and inexpensve.I use whatever color matches the horizontal line on the fish
  16. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    To each his own. I peronsally think felt looks terrible.
  17. Felt on fish!!!!!!!!!! :p
  18. Brian W

    Brian W Well-Known Member

    Magic Smooth or Epo-grip. Take your pick as far as attaching to the wood: wooden dowels, threaded rod, hangers or long screws.
  19. Monty Artrip

    Monty Artrip Active Member

    I personally try to get the skin to match up close as possible and use magic smooth. I let it set up a little and texture. Once completely ddry, I cut scales in with a dremel. I am only talking a single row of scales in most cases and only takes a few extra minutes overall. The magic smooth will not crack out like bondo or epoxy sculpt.That being said, I like Gary Bruch's answer: If they are looking at the back, you didn't impress them enough on the front! That is exactly why I don't spend lots of time on the back.