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Ram Horns Procedure

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Clovis Point, Oct 17, 2021.

  1. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    Having mounted 31 WTs, 2fish, 1 possum, 1 bobcat, 1 red fox, and 1 coon I just got in my first sheep. It’s a high fence mouflon…going on a research wall ped… going to be sending hide off to commercial tannery. I haven’t split it from skull yet, I assume the skinning out can be done the way I do my white tails (short y blah blah blah) but I know that horns aren’t antlers… what’s the deal with that? Do I cut skull cap the same ? Seems like I’ve seen somewhere people talking about letting it rot a little while then slipping the outer shell of the horns off or some such business …. What do I do?
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Most Rams you use part of the skull eye socket , but for now cut straight down in front of the eye socket and then cut from the back edge of brain cavity thru the lower 1/3 of the socket , leaving 2/3 of socket on skull . Clean brains out and eyes then put horns and all in a big tub of water . Leave covered in water for at least a week , then ck , horns should pop off , if not leave another week , repeat till they pop . Then clean out horns throw some DP in them . Now clean all meat and nasty off skull . Once you get your form and before you put horns back on cut your skull to fit form , allowing for eye sockets and such . Hope you understand what I’m saying .

  3. Or put them in a pot of simmering water for about 5 -10 minutes and a couple good hits with a rubber mallet and they will pop right off - cut about half the core off drill down through the center of that core to get a lot of the loose soft bone marrow out ( I like the hole to go all The way through so the “boiling water “
    Goes all the way through the core ) - throw that cap back in the simmering pot for another 5 minutes & then pressure wash meat and everything off (takes another 5 -10minutes ) a little dish soap and a scrub brush cleaned the horns up really nice - them them dry real good in side - ( a few days anyway ) a little dry preserve in there helps a little and then bondo or epoxy them back on and your good to go - ( you can look at other posts here about the argument of epoxy vs bondo , do what works for you ) this way you don’t have to mess with them for several Weeks in a pot of smelly water In your shop.
    This works great for me , I do them the same day they come in and they come off great . Did about 100 sets this year alone …. With McKenzie forms the cut is higher then the research forms - the research forms you leave more of the eye socket on them - the McKenzie you do not , you cut just above at the top of the socket and they fit about right .

    Attached Files:

  4. Clovis Point

    Clovis Point Active Member

    Thank you both of you. I have a “maceration station” already where I macerate my deer skulls… so I believe I’ll opt for the hands off approach 13 point suggested seeing as I have preexisting infrastructure for stanky water management.

    glad I asked before I cut , I would have likely not left enough eye socket… definitely going to adopt the “you can always cut more off later but you can’t put more back on after you cut” approach in regards to cutting skull cap.