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Spots On Trout

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Pikeonthefly, Nov 7, 2021.

  1. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I'm just trying to figure out how using retarder for me doesn't cause any issues clear coating the same day. My auto isn't two part it's 4:1. I don't believe Frank uses a sealer before applying his colors. Could that be it?
    Clew likes this.
  2. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Rustoleum thick right now
    Cecil likes this.

  3. jigginjim

    jigginjim Active Member

    Another thing for practice, if you get the chance, create your half fish for practicing on. I have taken the skins from fish glue them on to a piece of to to practice airbrushing on. Later you can either white out or just use thinner to remove the paint to start over. or you can mold a side from a replica and create another side, for your practice fish.
    Pikeonthefly likes this.
  4. Pikeonthefly

    Pikeonthefly Active Member

    All these tips have really helped me out over the last few weeks. I'm working on a couple of browns now. After a can of lacquer thinner, a roll of paper towels, 1 can of sealer, several cups of various paints and pickling myself from the absorption of the lacquer thinner and several reference photos I finally reached the point where it was reasonable to move forward with the halos and spots. I bought the retarder as suggested in this post and it helped. But I have to say using Franks method of removing the cone and getting close to the subject made me feel like a pro. (by no means has the paint job turned out that way) But that method was actually enjoyable. I need to practice getting a softer edge to the halos. Using the airbrush without the cone is liking putting them on with a ball point pen which works great when you're painting the spots inside them. Thanks again everyone for sharing your methods. You make this artform better for everyone. Where would taxidermy be today if others like you had never shared?
    Mudbat likes this.
  5. Mudbat

    Mudbat Well-Known Member

    I run 3 airbrushes. Two neos for bulk spraying. One for lacquer on for water base. Do all my detail with the HP B+( lawyer only) 99% of the time with out the cone on. Can get great detail. Only con is that it’s very easy to nick the needle and bend it.
  6. Pescado

    Pescado Biggest in 2011

    I learned more about airbrushing sitting in booths at trade shows killing time than I ever did painting fish in my shop. Like Frank mentioned, PRACTICE , that is the key word in airbrushing. Paper towel was what I always sprayed on while killing time, would have a couple fish to spray on when showing customers. Most paper towel hassome texture and designs, these work good for target shooting.
    A lot of folks like lacquer for detailing, but if you screw up, your screwed. If you detail with waterbased, over paint that has been sealed (with lacquer) and screw up, you can simply wipe away your mistake and try again. You can also touch up any overspray or spiderlegs
    with a fine brush and then lock in your detail ( with lacquer) once you like it. This reduced my frustration greatly when detailing.
    Treat your airbrush like a quality firearm, never put it away dirty.
  7. Pikeonthefly

    Pikeonthefly Active Member

    Never put it away dirty. So true!