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How To Mark You Capes For Tannery

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Dwb5, May 7, 2022.

  1. Dwb5

    Dwb5 Active Member

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    I got a quick question. What is the best thing to use to ID my capes to go to the tannery so that I know which cape is what when they get back?Will colored zip ties work?
     
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    In my opinion no as the could note that and just put that in the other hide , punch code it . I took a Phillip head screw driver and ground a 3 way like wedge chisel point with it . My clients receipt number is his ID number so if his receipt number is 12345 I only use the last 3 so I punch 345 in his hide in a certain spot , you don’t have to worry if a tag falls of as the code is always there . Here’s how my code would look you can use as many numbers as you like , but in 36 years I’ve never had hide mixed up or lost as that code and your unique punch identifies it . image.jpg
     
    drob likes this.

  3. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    I’ll just add this , if your code punch calls for a 0 I make a little slit cut in that number row .
     
  4. whitetails and fish only

    whitetails and fish only Well-Known Member

    Some Tannerys use this method also so be careful not to mark your hides in the same location they use which could cause problems.
     
    Richard C likes this.
  5. Dwb5

    Dwb5 Active Member

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    Thanks guys
     
  6. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Yes as stated above the tannery’s do punch code there own numbers, on there price sheets and such they will show you where they put there codes , so you adjust your punch codes per that . Also they use a smaller punch then mine .
     
  7. Crittrstuffr

    Crittrstuffr Well-Known Member

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    Wildlife Gallery uses what appears to be a Phillips screwdriver type marks so I use a hole punch. 2 holes over 3 for example. Then tag the antler with the same punch code, paperwork and I wet tan everything so when it returns I stretch it then bag it and mark it with the same punch code. Helps keep me straight on everything.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2022
  8. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Screw driver ground down and a punched cape image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
    WLdLfeArt and Dwb5 like this.
  9. I use color zips on all mine plus a hole punch or two just as a back up.
    Never had any come back without the zips still attached. Have sent them to Carolina, & advantage with no issues. I can't remember who but some tannery puts colored zips on skins.
    Sure makes identification quick without searching for the holes.
    Don't know that it makes any difference but I put them on leg close to the edge.
    Most of the time use a combination of colors, like 1 blue 2 yellow
     
    Dwb5 likes this.
  10. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    On deer flatskins, I take a photo of the skin while it’s stretched out before salting. Those bullet holes and the shape of the skin are my ID. Bobcat and otter have CITES tags. All other skins are punch coded as described.
     
  11. Crittrstuffr

    Crittrstuffr Well-Known Member

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    Joey do you send them to the tannery with the CITES Tag still in place? I have my first Otter to do and was going to remove it first before it was salted dried and sent to the tannery. I can see the eye hole getting totally tore open with that thing in there.
     
  12. tazzymoto

    tazzymoto Well-Known Member

    image.jpeg this is what I have used when send stuff out, never had an issue
     
  13. BDrake

    BDrake Active Member

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    Personally, I do 2 codes on each cape. One is a number punch code on the hide. The other is zipties on the ear but. I also note any scars and notches in the ears. Have had capes in the past come back with the code area destroyed by fleshing machine mistakes. Can give you peace of mind.