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Using Bondo For Setting The Skull Caps On Deer

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by woakley144, May 26, 2022.

  1. woakley144

    woakley144 Active Member

    Learned a trick from Jerry Huffaker on how to keep your bondo from running everywhere when you are setting a skull cap on the manikin. Use a small amount of latex caulk mixed in the bondo to thicken the bondo. It will make bondo stay in the skull cap and so much easier to set the antlers. The latex does not affect the hardener in the bondo either!

    Just thought I would share with everyone.
     
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    And is why I use paper mache , tad cheaper also . Thanks for the tip tho .
     
    woakley144 and George like this.

  3. Keith

    Keith Well-Known Member

    For those that do not know,

    a pinch or two of salt will cause the paper mache to set quicker.
     
  4. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I mixed it with saw dust to create a think peanut butter consistency.
     
  5. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    That's interesting and I never would have thought of trying it. I wonder if it was discover by accident or experiment.
     
    Keith and Dwb5 like this.
  6. Heath Cline

    Heath Cline Well-Known Member

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    I too use used sawdust out of my tumbler to mix in the Bondo to thicken it to stay put.
     
    Ron B likes this.
  7. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    since this thread has been hijacked into a what to use to thicken bondo thread, I use the foam dust from roughing up forms. I have to sweep it up anyway, I already paid for it and am just gonna throw it away anyhow and it works good.
     
    woakley144 and Mike Powell like this.
  8. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    you learn something new every day. thanks for all the tips everyone.
     
    woakley144 likes this.
  9. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    I use just enough Bondo to seat the skull cap and then mix plaster of Paris and fill in the gap and smooth it to the form. Keep wetting your finger and plaster will do whatever you want it to do.
     
    woakley144 likes this.
  10. Penczak

    Penczak Active Member

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    I use an asbestos substitute. Specifically fireproofing I get it by the 50lb bags. I mix it with plaster for Miche and Bondo for a thick gelcoat; Even fiberglass resin to make my own thick fiberglass, like Bondo, I also mix it with dextrin to make hide paste.
    You have to use a big paint mixing drill bit to get all the clumps out. The fire proofing already has some glue in it.
    It's the kind sprayed on metal beams on commercial jobs.

    upload_2022-5-29_23-38-28.jpeg
     
    woakley144 likes this.
  11. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Good tips. I have always put plastic cling wrap down first, then bondo the skull cap wrapping the outer edges of the wrap up over the cap, kind of molding it as I wrap it.
     
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  12. Westcoast

    Westcoast Well-Known Member

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    Can you sculpt with it? Will it feather a smooth transition to the form? I like presculpting muscle detail and mounting against a solid surface. I hate how clay distorts and moves even though there is freedom in that. I’m looking for a medium like clay but that will dry hard and not crack. All Game or Epoxy Sculpt is perfect, but way too expensive for the amount I want to use. Do you think that this Bondo/Latex combo could be the answer to my prayers?
     
    woakley144 likes this.
  13. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Try CLAY SHAY from Aves , that may do what your looking to do
     
    Westcoast likes this.
  14. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    We were using Bondo 50 years ago to reduce moisture under the skin around the skullcap. (Paper mache is still wet when it sets and few people wait 2 days for it to dry before mounting.)
    At that time, Van Dykes sold a thickening agent, Cabosil, used buboat builders and forms makers who used polymers.
    If you have sawdust or sufficient "form dust" it will work well. Cabosic, conversy has zero weight. You can fill a garbage bag with 3 pounds of it a a tablespoon of it will be more than enough to fill an antlercap. I see no reason, fiscal or otherwise, to use caulk. For the cost of a tube of caulk, you could buy enough Cabosil to mount 10 deer. On Amazon a quart costs $15 and a gallon is about $30.
     
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  15. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    I use the bondo and a rasp it while kicking to remove what is needed to bring it level to the skull cap and form. Then I use the clay I get from hobby lobby for finishing. Much cheaper than critter clay. Critter clay I use for detail work on eye's, mouth, nose, tear duct, etc.
     
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  16. Westcoast

    Westcoast Well-Known Member

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    I do my skull plate in foam with a very thin layer of clay just before mounting. Strong, light and ultimately less drying time.
     
  17. Denton Shearin

    Denton Shearin 2009-Breakthrough Award, McKenzie Award,

    Foam is a gift from God!
    Foam dust is the devils revenge!!
     
  18. Keith

    Keith Well-Known Member

    There's a level in hell where using an air compressor foam dust is sprayed into your eyes, getting it under your contacts. LOL
     
    George and Denton Shearin like this.
  19. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    "There's a level in hell where using an air compressor foam dust is sprayed into your eyes, getting it under your contacts. LOL"
    LOL, that and blowing into the nose during carving out!!!
     
  20. Dave York

    Dave York Well-Known Member

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    Used bondo for years. I went and spent a week at Joe Meder’s in Iowa. He used critter clay. So I switched to using that.