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Stiff Cow Hides?

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by Oswalt Tanner, Jan 30, 2023.

  1. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member

    Troubleshooting with cowhide.


    Howdy. I have tried to tan 3 cow hides now and they have all turned out hard, crispy and unpliable. I will walk you through how exactly I tan the hides. I would greatly appreciate any tips or knowledge you could pass on to me as I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. I also understand that cowhides are notoriously tedious and difficult for the home tanner. I don’t think it is impossible to churn out a nice, soft cow skin from home is it?

    Ok here is the process:
    1. After removing the hide from the carcass, I use an angle grinder with a flap disc attached to remove any large pieces of fat, meat, and membrane.
    2. Next, I salt the skin generously with non-iodized salt. I loosely fold the hide up, skin to skin, and let sit for 24 hrs.
    3. Once salting is done, I shake off salt and clean the skin with soap and tepid water. I allow the skin to drip dry while I make the acid
    4. For my acid bath, I use oxalic acid and salt. Per gallon of water, I use 1 oz oxalic acid crystals and 1 LB salt. After mixing, I use a PH testing strip to ensure that the acid is between a PH of 1 - 2.5.
    5. I put the hide in the acid bath and leave it for 48 hrs.
    6. Once the hide has been in the acid for 48 hrs, I take it out and thin the skin with the flap disc again. From what I understand, this step is where a lot of home tanners do not get it right. I thin the skin until I can see the color of the hair from the flesh side. So I try to get it nearly to the follicle.
    7. Once the skin is thinned, it goes back into the acid for another 24 hrs.
    8. After 24 hrs, I take it out and neutralize it in baking soda water for about 30-45 minutes.
    9. Then I thoroughly wash the skin with soap for the last time.
    10. Once the skin is exceedingly clean, I put the hide in the washing machine and put it on spin only to wring out any excess water.
    11. After the washing machine has spun out the excess water the skin is still wet(Not dripping) and pliable but the hair side is only mildly damp.
    12. Now I apply a generous amount of tanning oil onto the skin—I use TruBond 1000B—so much so that it's pooling. I roll up the hide(Skin to skin) And leave for 16 hours.
    13. Now, after that time is up, I unroll and thread it onto the stretching frame. I have an 8x8 2x4 frame that fits almost all cow skins.
    14. I use string and poke holes all around the hide and string it into the frame as per usual.
    15. Once it is strung and taut, I add yet another generous dose of tanning oil. I have found—on my other hides—that this second addition of tanning oil really helps soften the hide.
    16. Then I begin the drying process. I allow for 2-3 hours of drying before I begin breaking with a shovel and wire wheel on an angle grinder.
    17. I break the skin every hour throughout the day to ensure that it does not become too dry to break.
    18. Usually, the skin is not completely dry by day’s end so I put plastic on the flesh side until I can work the hide again in the morning.
    19. I repeat the process the next day until the skin is totally dry.
    20. Once the skin is dry, I run a wire wheel over it to get nice smooth suede.

    I have researched for many hours and am still unsure what I can do to create a soft cowhide. Is there a different chemical I can use? Is there a technique I’m missing? For my first cowhide, I also used LuTan in addition to all these other steps but that didn’t work either. I must add that I have been highly successful with coyote, fox, rabbit, sheep, and goat skins using this same method. I'm able to get those skins as soft as a baby’s butt.

    Again any tips or suggestions are highly valued, thanks.
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    6,753
    3,130
    MN
    If I'm not mistaken, directions on most pickles that I have used say to rehydrate salted skins prior to putting in pickle for at least 72 hours for a deer cape prior to shaving and they are relatively thin skinned, cow hides simply are not. I also think you are washing too often. I wash skins after they are rehysrated, prior to the pickle and then again after tanning is complete, if needed.
     
    Oswalt Tanner likes this.

  3. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Ok one thing that caught me was you never hydrated the salted cape. Salt pull a lot of moisture plus non tannable fluids. I’ve also never hydrated a hide 72 hr and it may be a mistake as that would cause slippage the most is 48 in a salt brine and if that doesn’t work, a pressure washer helps in that or reverse osmosis.
    Usually a fresh salted cape would hydrate in 2-12 hours. Then rinse and in the pickle.
    You may need Luba stretch oil to help you as you still may not have broken it well enough. It sounds like you got it thin enough and if not that could be a reason. You’re working on a tough skin to soften.
     
    Oswalt Tanner likes this.
  4. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    6,753
    3,130
    MN
    I either wrote that wrong or you misunderstood I meant to say that it should be in the pickle 72 hours not rehydrated for that long. A hide takes as long as it takes to rehydrate, yes most take less than a day.
     
    Oswalt Tanner likes this.
  5. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member

    Okay, good info. If you wash the skin after you apply tanning oil, doesn't it wash off the oil?
     
  6. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member


    Thanks for your input Frank. Ive never heard of rehydrating a skin before pickling. What does the rehydrating do for the tanning process? Does it allow the tan/pickle to penetrate deeper or something?
    Also, are you suggesting using a pressure washer to take off the salt? And that would work as a rehydration method as well?
     
  7. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    6,753
    3,130
    MN
    If tanned properly the tan likely can't be washed out of the leather/skin. I should rephrase my post, on dry tans I only wash the fur side after the tanning and oiling are done, and before the final breaking. On brush on wet tans I shampoo the whole skin prior to mou nting.
     
    Oswalt Tanner likes this.
  8. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Anytime we salt a hide it pulls moisture and non tannable fluids out and that starts to dry a cape out. Prior to a pickle we need to put back what was taken out. ( a pickle won’t hydrate a cape properly)
    So we need to place that cape in plain water or water with an additive added to it to speed up the process.
    Hydration can take from 2-48 hrs depending on the thickness of the cape. Once hydrated ( that’s all skin pliable) I’ll then rinse the cape and place it the pickle. This will help ensure the cape gets fully pickled. The pickle after 3 days of soaking and agitation gets pull out and drained, shaved and degreased if needed, then back into the pickle. The pickle makes shaving easier, plus it’ll pull out more non tannable fluids and aids in preparation for tanning.
     
    Oswalt Tanner likes this.
  9. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    The use of a pressure washer is only used mostly in hard dried skins like those from Africa.
     
    Muledeer83 and Oswalt Tanner like this.
  10. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member


    Thanks for the advice. I have ordered some Lubri Strech and hope for good results...
    If you have any tips on rehydrating a skin before re-oiling you can let me know. What I'm planning on doing is keep adding water until it's soft again. I've heard it can take several applications of water to rehydrate the skin again.
     
  11. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    Make a mixture per gallon of tepid water 4 oz of salt
    1/4 cup of fabric softener
    Sponge it on the cape, fold and fridge it overnight. Repeat if necessary.
     
  12. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member

    Thanks!
     
    Frank E. Kotula likes this.
  13. darton

    darton Member

    90
    9
    Would help a great deal if you had yourself a 6 foot tumbler. 200 pounds of sawdust and 3 hrs of tumbling/breaking/softening/polishing would make that hide look and feel like a million bucks.
     
  14. darton

    darton Member

    90
    9
    6 foot tumbler
     

    Attached Files:

  15. darton

    darton Member

    90
    9
    For thick hides , I like to use two coats of TruBond 1000B. When the first coat has sucked up most of the tanning oil, apply the hot second coat and wait till it is almost dry. Break your hide and then place it into your tumbler for three hours. I then pull the hide out and hang to air dry overnight. As it is almost completly dry, tumble three more hours in dry sawdust. My 6 foot tumbler runs at 17.5 RPM. Just enough speed to lift everything to the top and then drop to bottom. The 2x12 inch paddles in the tumbler allow for that to happen.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2023
  16. darton

    darton Member

    90
    9
    My 6 foot talll by 4 foot wide fur tumbler spins at 17.5 revolutions per minute. Sides were made of 3/4 inch 4x8 sheet plywood (2 sheets). For paddles inside the tumbler I had four 2"x12"x4 foot boards spaced 90 degrees from each other screwed to each plywood side. Had another four 2"x4"x4 foot boards doing the same thing but in between the 2x12's for added strenght . This created the paddles inside my tumbler . I used 2 sheets of 4 foot by 12 foot 14 guage galvanized sheet metal for the outer skin all the way around tumbler and heavily screwed to plywood and 2x12's and 2x4's. Had a reducer that was 80 to 1 spinning the tumbler 17.5 rpm. Pillow block bearings make the "HEAVY" tumbler spin very smoothly with 200 lbs 0f sawdust. As far as the drive system goes, try and find the largest toothed sprocket you can get and mount it onto your drum. A chain driven tumbler will not fail you. With the weight of this tumbler, v-belts will just want to slip.
     
  17. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member



    If only I could fit that by the washing machine... :(
     
  18. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member



    Have you done cow skins/other thick-skinned critters in this machine?
     
  19. darton

    darton Member

    90
    9
    Deer and moose hides. I have a fleshing machine that shaves the hides down to a perfect thickness to allow the tanning oil to penetrate. All profesionally tanned hides are broke and tumbled this way. Only difference is they are 8, 10, or 12 feet high. The higher the drop, the more the fiberes loosen and seperate giving a softer hide. They also have staking machines that beat the hides to break them before they go into the tumblers.
     
  20. Oswalt Tanner

    Oswalt Tanner New Member


    Thanks for the advice Dalton.