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Problem with eye lids shrinking

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by nina5150, Sep 22, 2007.

  1. nina5150

    nina5150 Active Member

    i know I'm not the only one who had this problem at one time.Can you guys give me your 411 on why the eye lids or eye skin shrinks and pulls away form the eye ball when drying??and if any one is feeling really generous can i get the color mixture for the deer nose?..:D...any help and all info greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Brian Claar

    Brian Claar New Member

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    You are not splitting them correctly. You Must split and take out the little fatty type deposits, you will know it when you see it. Also thin down the skin all around the eyes including the eye lids. Seems hard at first but you will catch on.
    Use critter clay to sculpt your eyes, not regular clay you by at store.
     

  3. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    My guess is that you are mounting a skin that is too wet, as well as not thinning properly (A MUST). If there is any excess water in the skin, it will hydrate the clay too much and dilute the paste. The clay will hold this moisture for a long time and keep the paste from tacking up. The skin then will begin to shrink way before the paste can begin to tack and hold it in place. When I mounted my first deer, I was so paranoid of the skin drying out as I mounted it that I would spray it with water the whole time I was working with it. Excess water will also dilute the paste and make it run down inside the mount and pool in the neck and briskit. I like to let the skin dry out as I do the final thinning of the eyelids and do my earliner work. Then by the time I mount, It is not wet to the touch. You can stretch the lips and eyelids right before you tuck them and if you have plenty of paste in there, it will tack quick enough that it will hold. Remember that paste will rehydrate the skin somewhat and if the skin is not too wet, it will absorb the paste and adhere very well. You still will have to adjust over a period of days.
    No matter what you do, you will always get a gap when the mount is completely dry. If done properly though, this gap should be about as thick as a sheet of paper and not be much of a problem.
    I learned all this the hard way. ;)
     
  4. Ihntdeer

    Ihntdeer Member

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    Also, for the first few days make sure it's not pulling away, if it does they clay is probably still maleable and you can press the eyelids back
     
  5. tod

    tod Member

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    fla
    Back before i learned what the others gave you, sterling advice by the way, on "thinning the eyes and removing the fatty deposits" I had the same problems. for a fix to close the gap i used epoxy sculpt forced down into the gap to fill it and i also build the solaria (don't think i spelled that right ) the little wiper at the inside corner of the eye ,out of epoxy sculpt also good luck Tod.
     
  6. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    Plan on the eye opening a little when it dries. I have them set at 5/8" wide wet, and they dry to 3/4" wide. You must baby set them. I tuck and set the eye to about 90% done, finish the deer, then go back and finish the eye, Bag the deer over night if you want, and then check the eyes in the morning, then again in 6 hours, then again a while later that same day. Adjust them if they need it.
     
  7. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    Yep, Mr T is right on.
    I forgot to say that I too set my eyes a little on the squinty side, and they will open up a little as they dry.
    Good advice.
     
  8. bill@hogheaven

    [email protected] New Member

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    All excellant advice. Tod, that is "nictating membrane " you are building.
     
  9. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    i use paynes gray as general color when finishing - he asked for nose color too - duh!
     
  10. nina5150

    nina5150 Active Member

    You guys are so awsome....i will try harder on thinning and change the clay im using AND make sure its not so wet...thanks again.Greatly appreciated
     
  11. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    Wrong destination or what?
     
  12. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    Yep. I actually want a thin gap so that I can get a thin thread of Apoxie mixed half black and half brown in there. Then I put a thick coat of Podge on it to simulate eye water between the lid and eye. If there is NO gap, I have a hell of a time getting the Apoxie to stick as I work it. I had one that dried with no discernable gap and it wasn't what I thought I wanted after all. When I say thin though, I mean thin. Just enough so you can tool some Apoxie in it.
     
  13. jennifer

    jennifer New Member

    Sometimes i do the clay work around the eye and bag it overnight. I use critter clay only. The next morning I come in and put the hide on. The clay is still moist and easier to work with then. Just my personal preference.
     
  14. John W.

    John W. New Member

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    The thinning of the eye skin is one of the big problem solvers,the other reason just like others have said ,you may have the clay too wet .;D
     
  15. I dont tuck my eye skins. I cut all that off. I find it works MUCH better for me. No worrying about the skin coming untucked and much easier to flesh. And I dont have any problems with my eye skins pulling away. Good luck.
     
  16. bigbuck28

    bigbuck28 New Member

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    On the forms where the eyes are preset do i have to use alot of clay if i have thinned the eyes