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Proper Hide Prep Work and Terminology

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by George, Sep 27, 2007.

  1. engwalid

    engwalid New Member

    I want salting the sheep, lamb and goat skins and storage them for long time to export them ....

    Can i wash the two sides of the skins ?

    Can i stack the skins ( in layers ) within the salting procedure ?

    I want get a cleaned salted skins .....

    Best Regards,
  2. thanks for the information George. You seem to help alot on this website.

  3. Golddragn7

    Golddragn7 New Member

    Thanks so much for the info. This is my first hide I am trying to get tanned. I have a road killed coyote with no exterior damages. I just want to save the hide with the fur on for a liner for a pair of moccasins for myself. I figure if the government uses coyote fur for extreme arctic parka hoods, it might be a good liner for my elkhide moccasins if it is feasable. If you can please let me know. ;)
  4. Artie mags

    Artie mags New Member

    I used a large tomato plant gage the cone shaped to hang my capes to dry after salting.Of course if you use the short incision.Just pull the cape over the cage starting at the pinch in the cone of the cage.Works great.
  5. paxton18064

    paxton18064 New Member

    Very good information. I feel more comfortable moving forward with my first mount. I have a buck in the freezer that I skinned and started splitting the day after we shot him this fall. I was pressed for time and didn't want to continue in fear of doing a sloppy job and also just being somewhat unsure how far to flesh. I was hearing advice of just rough splitting and sending it off to the tannery and having them do all the work. I'm glad I waited until I got a little more educated on the matters. Its challenging to piece together all the exact steps much less develop the talent it takes to carry them out. But I feel I want to learn to do it myself; except I will send it out to be tanned for now. Anyway, thanks again for the valuable information.
  6. huntemup

    huntemup New Member

    Great post...I am still a little slow so I have been salting and rubbing it in as I go along. It is tough to get all that red meat off. I even make small holes trying to thin the lips down but still want to get that meat out. Thanks Again.
  7. Jaque 1

    Jaque 1 New Member

    George,I,m new to this game.I want to make a raccoon hat with the the head and feet on.I,m not sure how to spit the ears or tan the paws.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Jaque, the simple explanation is that "Everything that doesn't have hair growing out of it needs to be removed completely." The hide can't have flesh, bone, sinew or cartilage left on it during this process if you want the job done right.
  9. Jaque 1

    Jaque 1 New Member

    Wanting to make a coon skin hat,with feet and head on.Talked to local taxidermist about the paws, and he said something about dry tanning.Also any info or suggestins will be greatly appreciated.Want to brain tan.Thanks!
  10. Wind_Drift

    Wind_Drift New Member

    At the risk of sounding redundant, I'd like to thank you as well for all of the straight answers and helpful advice. They've helped me alot, and in an industry that can be very competitive, i think that it's great that there are sites like this with posts like yours to provide the curious mind with helpful information that keeps us from having to "learn everything the hard way". Time is money and you've been saving me alot of both!
  11. jbnf

    jbnf New Member

    I know I am bringing up an old post but thought alot of newbies might like to read this.
  12. Albie

    Albie Member

    Thanks Mr. Roof. I too Have been doing this for a long time and learned those "basics" a long time ago. I do pretty nice work, according to my customers and proper hide prep plays a huge part in that. I flesh hides by hand using a knife and scalpel while they're green. It takes me three hours to completely prep a deer cape for salting. Whem I'm done EVERY bit of flesh and membrane is removed. I have a competitor who has bragged to me that he can flesh a cape (ears, lips, nostrils, et al) in half an hour. Well good for him, but he has never let me watch him nor shown me the results. In my shop I jokingly remark to folks, "I may not be very good, but at least I'm slow!"
    Little Al
  13. Nate G.

    Nate G. New Member

    Thanks George!! I've been wasting a bunch of salt.
  14. Thanks jbnf for bringing up this old post, no matter how old it is, it's content being timeless. It was easily read, easily followed, and the tip from George about rolling the flesh that lies between the nose and lip, was one of those I can tell you most learning taxidermists like myself take in and utilise and don't forget. Special thanks to you George, for a lesson in taxidermy, (again). Wishing you all well, stargazer
  15. very informative for a green guy like me. This will help as I am going to try to do my first fox.
  16. osbornetaxidermy

    osbornetaxidermy New Member

    Great information for us new to the business
  17. Das-Mimi

    Das-Mimi It's hard to live in CA and like Taxidermy...

    Awesome! This is definitely something for me to bookmark!
  18. jbtaxidermy

    jbtaxidermy New Member

    thanks George!

  19. clarkdeer

    clarkdeer New Member

    So how long is long to take on fleshing a hide before salting? After having some hair slippage on a cape, I try to get salt on them quicker now. I do get most red meat off and of course I split and turn lips, ears, nose and eyes. But I don’t clean up those areas until after tanning. So generally speaking how long does it take you to flesh befor salting? Thanks
  20. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    As you get more experienced, you'll find you flesh a lot faster. Once you get the "feel" of the knife or wheel, it simply rolls off. I can usually get a whitetail fleshed completely in 20-30 minutes. BUT don't try to beat that if it takes you longer. It is MUCH more important to get it done right than it is to get it done fast. Under normal work conditions, a hide should show no consequences if it's salted within 4-5 hours after you start.